Disappearing Act!

Makeup artists have been compared to magicians mostly because we seem to be able to make things disappear! Those dark circles, pimples, scars, crows’ feet, wrinkles and other sins of the skin and face are no match for the skilled artist.

While nothing should replace a healthy diet, exercise, sleep, hydration and practicing good skin care routines (which means removing every speck of makeup before you go to bed), there are a few tricks you can learn to minimize a skin issue from a makeup artist.

The very first thing I would tell you if you were my client is to invest in a really great concealer. All kidding aside, concealer is your BFF (best friend forever) and your first lesson is in understanding the difference between concealer and foundation.

Concealers work like undercover spies secretly correcting skin issues when placed in specific areas of the face, such as under eyes, around nasal labial folds or used as coverage for pimples or scars. Foundation's main job is to even out skin tone and is used all over the face and neck area. Concealers are thicker in consistency than a foundation and the best formulations are creamy with high pigmentation.

Now let’s talk color theory as it applies to makeup. Dark under-eye circles are blue in color as a general rule. On a color wheel orange cuts blue which means that in the world of concealers, you would want to look for a product that is like a salmon color. Using a concealer that is too yellow in tone can cause those raccoon eyes and accentuate the problem instead of hiding it.

If you are trying to cover a pimple or broken capillaries find a concealer that is close to the exact shade as your foundation. If you try to use a correcting concealer in a green color (because green cuts red on the color wheel) then make sure that you receive one-on-one instruction from a makeup professional, otherwise stick to my first suggestion and make sure the concealer is not too light because you will draw too much attention to your skin issue.

Here are a few of the concealers I carry in my professional kit and use personally everyday:

Eve Pearl’s Salmon Concealer – perfect salmon colored, under-eye concealer with a non-greasy texture, which glides on smooth and blends flawlessly. Available at www.evepearl.com. $42.00

Laura Mercier’s Secret Concealer – moisture-rich formulation designed specifically for under and around the eye area to conceal discolorations. Good viscosity and easy to blend. Available at your local Sephora, department store or online at www.lauramercier.com. $22.00

Laura Mercier’s Secret Camouflage – used for dark circles and minor imperfections, this is a unique two-shade system, one to match your skin’s depth of color and one to match your skin’s undertone. Custom-blend to your own perfect shade with high level of pigmentation. Available at your local Sephora, department store or online at www.lauramercier.com. $28.00

Benefit Cosmetic’s Erase Paste – brightening camouflage for eyes and face. This innovative formula instantly brightens and camouflages all in one. So if you are interested in minimizing those fine lines and you need coverage for skin irritations, this is a great product for you! Available at your local Sephora, department store, or online at www.benefitcosmetics.com.$26.00

Sometimes your foundation is all you need to cover a little sleep deprivation, all night party dehydration or chocolate-binge pimple, but if your skin is in need of more coverage apply concealer after foundation, this method also insures you are not putting on too much concealer. Try dabbing on the concealer with your ring finger instead of a brush or sponge. Warming up the concealer naturally with your fingertips will help blend the product quicker and smoother. Don’t rub the product under your eye, unless you want you that product to settle into those fine lines! Yuck!


Nancy S. wants to know:
I suffer from Rosacea, can a concealer cover my problem?

Pro suggests:
Rosacea can be concealed, but it depends on the severity of the condition. If the Rosacea is mild then by all means try a concealer, but you may want to try a correcting concealer like I mention above, with a green tint and you will want to consult with a makeup professional on proper application. If the case is more severe and is all over the face, I recommend consulting with your dermatologist who may be able to suggest a better approach or treatment to calm the sensitivity and minimize some of the redness.

In My Professional Opinion’s next post will be titled “Getting the Brush Over” and we will be reviewing many different cosmetic brush lines from high-end to on the cheap! If you have a question or comment pertaining to makeup brushes, we would love to hear from you! Click on the button Ask the Pro and send us an email today!


  1. WOW! This is too good. Having trusted insider secrets delivered right to my inbox... and for free! Thank you, Melissa and Aileen. You are what separate the true professionals from the rest.

    Linda Hodge

  2. Hi Linda!!

    Thanks so much for your comment! We are very happy to bring our professional tips and trix directly to all the lovely women of the universe! Feel free to pass along our blog to any and all you choose! Spread the beauty sister!

  3. Ever since I discovered salmon colored concealers, I SHUN everything else. I usually use Laura Mercier, but the photo you posted of Eve Pearl's concealer looks so divine, I'm tempted to purchase! BTW, Bobbi Brown makes correctors that are meant to go under your under-eye concealer, and I LOVE them for really hard to cover under eye discoloration.

  4. Hi In The Makeup!!!

    Eve Pearl is a little gem in the world of professional makeup artistry and she developed her concealer line because of her extensive work in the television industry (she is the makeup artist on The View). You owe it to yourself to check her out! Thanks for the BB tip!

  5. HEY EVERYONE!!!! Jose here:

    Just wanted to let you know that with regards to salmon coloured concealors which are rare since everyone widely agrees yellow appears to help....check out DuWop spankerific new concealors...there is a salmon-esque neutralizer on top with a very whipped and creamy (read: emollient) concealor attached - shades are light, medium, and dark (most people...even those with fair but yellower complexions who think they might be medium are light....TRUST me on this!).
    I made an MUA be the test guinea pig and what we discovered was this...with the neutralizer use AS LITTLE as possible or you will look orangey and salmoney....use as little as possible JUST over the discoloration (as Melissa points out...use to erase darkness so put it over the darkness only)...and the concealor is soooooo creamy you must start with a small amount on a brush or warm on the back of hand and PAT...do NOT rub...pat that small amout over the darkness and anywhere else then blend the edges...LOVE THIS STUFF!!!!
    Link: http://shop.duwop.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=336

  6. Hi Jose!!!

    Thanks for that great mini-tutorial! Yes - I hope everyone who read this post understands that I believe a salmon color concealer will cut the blue tones under the eyes (or dark circles) only! Please don't use it to cover up pimples, broken capillaries or other red tone skin issues! I am rushing to Sephora to check out DuWop today!!!