Makeup artists have been compared to magicians mostly because we seem to be able to make things disappear! Those dark circles, pimples, scars, crows’ feet, wrinkles and other sins of the skin and face are no match for the skilled artist.
While nothing should replace a healthy diet, exercise, sleep, hydration and practicing good skin care routines (which means removing every speck of makeup before you go to bed), there are a few tricks you can learn to minimize a skin issue from a makeup artist.
The very first thing I would tell you if you were my client is to invest in a really great concealer. All kidding aside, concealer is your BFF (best friend forever) and your first lesson is in understanding the difference between concealer and foundation.
Concealers work like undercover spies secretly correcting skin issues when placed in specific areas of the face, such as under eyes, around nasal labial folds or used as coverage for pimples or scars. Foundation's main job is to even out skin tone and is used all over the face and neck area. Concealers are thicker in consistency than a foundation and the best formulations are creamy with high pigmentation.
Now let’s talk color theory as it applies to makeup. Dark under-eye circles are blue in color as a general rule. On a color wheel orange cuts blue which means that in the world of concealers, you would want to look for a product that is like a salmon color. Using a concealer that is too yellow in tone can cause those raccoon eyes and accentuate the problem instead of hiding it.
If you are trying to cover a pimple or broken capillaries find a concealer that is close to the exact shade as your foundation. If you try to use a correcting concealer in a green color (because green cuts red on the color wheel) then make sure that you receive one-on-one instruction from a makeup professional, otherwise stick to my first suggestion and make sure the concealer is not too light because you will draw too much attention to your skin issue.
Here are a few of the concealers I carry in my professional kit and use personally everyday:
Eve Pearl’s Salmon Concealer – perfect salmon colored, under-eye concealer with a non-greasy texture, which glides on smooth and blends flawlessly. Available at www.evepearl.com. $42.00
Laura Mercier’s Secret Concealer – moisture-rich formulation designed specifically for under and around the eye area to conceal discolorations. Good viscosity and easy to blend. Available at your local Sephora, department store or online at www.lauramercier.com. $22.00
Laura Mercier’s Secret Camouflage – used for dark circles and minor imperfections, this is a unique two-shade system, one to match your skin’s depth of color and one to match your skin’s undertone. Custom-blend to your own perfect shade with high level of pigmentation. Available at your local Sephora, department store or online at www.lauramercier.com. $28.00
Benefit Cosmetic’s Erase Paste – brightening camouflage for eyes and face. This innovative formula instantly brightens and camouflages all in one. So if you are interested in minimizing those fine lines and you need coverage for skin irritations, this is a great product for you! Available at your local Sephora, department store, or online at www.benefitcosmetics.com.$26.00
TIPS AND TRIX:
Sometimes your foundation is all you need to cover a little sleep deprivation, all night party dehydration or chocolate-binge pimple, but if your skin is in need of more coverage apply concealer after foundation, this method also insures you are not putting on too much concealer. Try dabbing on the concealer with your ring finger instead of a brush or sponge. Warming up the concealer naturally with your fingertips will help blend the product quicker and smoother. Don’t rub the product under your eye, unless you want you that product to settle into those fine lines! Yuck!
TIME FOR A LITTLE Q&A:
Nancy S. wants to know:
I suffer from Rosacea, can a concealer cover my problem?
Rosacea can be concealed, but it depends on the severity of the condition. If the Rosacea is mild then by all means try a concealer, but you may want to try a correcting concealer like I mention above, with a green tint and you will want to consult with a makeup professional on proper application. If the case is more severe and is all over the face, I recommend consulting with your dermatologist who may be able to suggest a better approach or treatment to calm the sensitivity and minimize some of the redness.
In My Professional Opinion’s next post will be titled “Getting the Brush Over” and we will be reviewing many different cosmetic brush lines from high-end to on the cheap! If you have a question or comment pertaining to makeup brushes, we would love to hear from you! Click on the button Ask the Pro and send us an email today!