Gloss It Over!

Makeup artists usually have “go to” products, which is to say the MUA can’t possibly live or work without said products. This Pro’s addiction is lip gloss and I am not kidding when I say that I think I need a 12-step program! I just can't get enough of "it!" I must have 500 tubes of various shades that are frosted, shiny, matte, glittered and completely clear!



I remember the first time I fell in love with makeup, the year was 1979 and I was 12-years old! My mom allowed me to walk to our local Thrifty’s Drug Store to purchase an ice cream cone, but I wandered down the makeup aisle instead and my eyes popped out of their sockets! Maybelline, CoverGirl, Wet & Wild, Revlon and Max Factor were all there and I felt like Alice falling through the rabbit hole. I was hooked and now I just needed to decide what I wanted to take home with me!



As I strolled down the aisle, my eyes took in all the colors and I suddenly stop...there “it” was, calling my name, begging me to buy “it,” whispering that ice cream was bad for my complexion and that I would be much more popular if I purchased “it!” So, I searched through five or six different flavors until I found exactly what I was looking for…Bonnie Bell Lip Smacker in Root Beer Soda.



I rushed to pay for “it” and ripped open the packaging before I left the store! I had to apply "it" immediately and as soon as I un-popped the cap the sweetest smell of Root Beer flooded my senses! I touched "it" to my lips and ran to see my reflection in the store window.

This incredible, life-changing product was glistening, shining, sparkling and "it" tasted just like a root beer float. I smiled from ear to ear, stood up straighter and I held my head up higher, tossed my hair and sauntered out of that store with a spring in my Vans sneakers!

As I walked home, it felt as if every car whizzing past me held passengers that were blinded by my gorgeous lips and they honked their horns in approval (or maybe that was because I had too much "shake" in my dolphin shorts). Whatever! I reapplied that gloss 20 times before I got home, mostly because I kept eating "it" off my lips!

I remember not feeling one ounce of guilt when my mom asked, “what flavor did you get?” Expecting me to say the usual, which was Rocky Road, but instead I marched right up to her and announced that I was not a baby and that I was a mature young woman ready to wear cosmetics! I placed the nickel and dime change into her hand and walked straight into the bathroom to gaze adoringly at my reflection for the rest of the day.



When I woke up the next morning my hair was stuck to my face because I had applied another coat right before falling asleep. I couldn’t wait to get ready for school and I even had a special place in my backpack for my gloss! Just like my wide-toothed comb always lived in the back left pocket of my Ditto’s Jeans, my Lip Smacker would accompany me every where I went. That is, until Mrs. Edelstein promptly took it away because I kept applying "it" during her 7th Grade English class! Can you say detention?

Legend has it that the first lip gloss was launched in 1930 by Max Factor and it was appropriately named X-Rated! Factor was the first Pro MUA to invent cosmetics for the movie industry. He founded his company in 1909 and coined the term "makeup" based on the verb "to make up" (one's face). Max also was famous for creating special shades of lipstick for each of his starlets; Platinum (for Jean Harlow), Special Medium (for Joan Crawford) and Dark (for Claudette Colbert). He was the makeup artist for virtually all of the major movie stars during Hollywood's "golden years!" (1920-1930).



While searching for a way to make actresses have glossy lips on camera, he discovered a formula for thinning traditional greasepaint lipsticks and the lip gloss was born! Lillian Gish was the first of many Max Factor "faces" to wear his invention, which were eventually available in 12 varying shades and many other famous faces have followed in Ms. Gish's footsteps. X-Rated's formula remained successful until 2003 when Proctor and Gamble purchased the Max Factor line and discontinued "it!" How dare they!





There are about a billion lip glosses available to the consumer today and like a lipstick, they come in a variety of forms and can be applied in different ways. My personal favorite is a clear tube with a wand-tipped applicator.

A great lip gloss’ job is simple; make lips shiny, sultry and soft. That is it! Done! Glosses also provide color either as a complete alternative to lipstick or to be applied over lipstick to give a matte color more shine. There are also several types of “plumping” lip glosses on the market that contain ingredients which "claim" to make the lips appear fuller. However, these effects are usually short-lasting and require several applications before actual results appear.



Now that you have insight into my past and you are schooled on the history of lip gloss, here is a list of this Pro’s "go to" products:

tarte Vitamin-Infused Lipgloss – this product nourishes and conditions the lips with nutraceutical properties that help protect against environmental attack. It also includes natural ingredients from BORBA's Age Defying, Replenishing and Clarifying lines. My favorite shades are OM (sheer iridescent pink pearl), Liquid Sunshine (sheer iridescent nude sheen) and Nirvana (sheer cherry red).



Bobbi Brown Sheer Color Gloss – from the new The Nautical Collection, this gloss formula is super sheer and super wearable. Very see-through finish makes it easy for women to wear "punchy" shades. This Pro's favorite shades are Popsicle and Marina Pink. Also from the BB Lip Gloss line I adore the shades Buff, Raisin and Aubergine.



M.A.C. Tinted LipGlass - is a unique lip gloss that can create a glass-like finish. Designed to be worn alone or over lip pencil or lipstick. Highly pigmented with great "staying" power! My favorite colors are Mad Cap (a great "nude" lip color), Viva Glam VI, Chai and Russian Red.



Kiss of Pearl Lip Gloss – multi-functional gloss that provides rich color, luscious glide and smooth texture. This product will hydrate and nourish your lips so that they appear fuller and healthier looking. The component is dual ended so each color can "snap" off to mix and match with other colors in the Kiss of Pearl line. This Pro's favorite shades are Stardust/Moonlight Kiss and Baby Doll/Honey Bunny.



Laura Mercier Lip Glace – is sheer, high-shine gloss that can be worn alone or layered over lipstick to add a touch of luster to the lips. My favorite colors are Bare Beige (light neutral brown) and Bellini (shimmering peach coral).



Sally Hansen Lip Inflation Plumping Treatment - refreshingly tingly gloss that inflates lips overtime. Ginger and cinnamon help to stimulate and plump lips while peppermint provides lips with a cooling and stimulating sensation. In this Pro's never-ending quest for the ultimate "nude" lip gloss color, I came across this product line and now I can't live without it! Favorite shade is Sheer Mocha, but all three gloss colors are wonderful.



Chanel L'evres Scintillantes Glossimer - intense frost and shine for lips with a gel texture that imparts a shimmery, ultra-glossy look. Water-resistant formula for extremely long-lasting wear. Vitamins C and E protect against free radicals. Use alone or over lipstick to intensify color and shine. My favorite colors are Rose Sand, Pagoda, Giggle and Sum Plum.



PRO TIPS & TRICKS:
Lip gloss directed to the center of the mouth can make your lips appear fuller and using a gold, silver or iridescent lip gloss over a matte lipstick can intensify the color and really make the lips pop! I also love to apply a clear, shiny gloss just above the "cupid's bow" or center of the upper lip. Like over-drawing your lips with a liner, this method will give the illusion that lips are fuller up top and balance out a thin upper lip.



STAY TUNED:
Up next on IMPO: Have you ever wondered how MUA's achieve the "no" makeup, makeup look? Well, it takes a lot more product then you think to pull off "natural beauty!" Get it right with our tips and tricks!

Glow Baby Glow!

There are several “staples” you will find if you are ever lucky enough to dig into a professional MUA’s kit, like incredible skin care, false lashes, industry concealers and foundations, flesh tone pencils, liquid liner, cake mascaras, the perfect nude lip gloss and of course…bronzer!

This Pro’s kit is packed with several variations of bronzer in shades ranging from light to dark. I can’t do a television spot or film project without them and I rely on bronzers for correcting and creating natural beauty. My favorite types are matte colors (no sparkle) because I use them to sculpt the face, jaw bone, nose area and correct flaws or create illusions, which ultimately trick the viewer’s eye into thinking the actor or model's face is completely flawless.



Bronzer should be primary in your makeup bag as well to give your face a sun-kissed glow and to wake up tired, pasty skin. Finding the right color for your skin tone is crucial because you want to be able to wear a bronzer all year around.

Here are a few guidelines:

Fair Skin: peach/pink bronzers

Light: beige brown with a hint of pink

Medium: Browny pink with a touch of cooper for warmth

Olive Skin: copper shades

Dark Skin: dark shades with a touch of red or blue if you are deep dark skin toned.

Avoid orange shades, which will immediately give you an unnatural look and leave you feeling like one of Willy Wonka’s Oompa Loompas or like one of those overly spray tanned actresses (who shall remain nameless).



My preference is powder-based bronzers applied with a fan brush, but there are also several cream- or gel-based products that work well for dry skin and should be applied with a sponge, which I do use now and then on certain television and film projects.

This Pro uses the following application technique when contouring and correcting: apply bronzer to jaw line, under cheekbone, down sides and tip of nose and at the temples. Always blend into the skin for the best results. To help illustrate, check out the great contour/highlight chart below:



For everyday application apply bronzer lightly to the areas of your face that the sun would naturally tan; apples of cheeks, chin, forehead and down the nose area.

Bronzer can replace the need for blush color, but feel free to add a shimmer highlight just above your cheek bone directly under your eye area. Complete your look with eyeliner, a coat of mascara, add a pretty gloss and you are ready to take on the day! Bronzer is magic and looks best on the days when you don’t need a ton of coverage from foundation or concealer.

Self-Tanners are also used to warm up the complexion of the skin on the body and face, but if applied wrong or excessively can lead to disaster. However, if you are not a sun worshiper or if you are completely conscious of sun damage, then using a self-tanner is a necessity for you during the year.



If applying self-tanner on the face, be sure several hours have passed before makeup application and make sure to apply the tanner to your neck and ears and wash your hands throughly after. Self-tanners come in cream, gel and spray formula usually mixed with a moisturizer for easy application and best results. Don’t forget to wait the recommended time limit before getting dressed and most products take an hour or more to develop color on skin.

Here are a few Bronzers and Self –Tanners that this Pro can’t “glow” without:

Nars: you can find several shades of Nars Powder Bronzers in my professional makeup kit, as well as a few of Nars’ Multiples. Powder shades include: Zen (matte), Irresistiblement, Casino, Laguna – Zen is a Nars blush color, but I use it as bronzer. Multiples: Rapa Nui, Malaysia, Tuomota.




Dior: love these shades from Dior, they are incredible on the skin and give a very natural radiance! Shades: Honey Matte 002 and Amber Matte 003. Dior’s Bronze Original Tan in Healthy Tan 01, Honey Tan 02 and Amber Tan 03 can be found in my personal and professional makeup arsenal. I also use Dior Bronze Self-Tanner Natural Glow Face and Body.





Shu Uemura: beautiful color for lighter skin tones in Light and Warm.



Calvin Klein: sunkissed, healthy glow for medium to olive skin tones in Sun Dance and Sun Drenched.



Laura Mercier's Bronzing Duo: perfect harmony for medium, olive and dark skin tones. Choose Bronzing for olive tones, Pink Bronze for dark skin and Coral Bronze for medium skin.



Mystic Tan: self-tanner for face and body is an aerosol formula that will give you a deep, even application. It is alcohol-free and it dries quickly.



Bliss, A Tan For All Seasons: this is a great self-tanner infused with antioxidants and aloe vera. Amazing color and no gross odor!



Speciality Products: Tarte’s Glam Gams Leg Bronzing Stick can be used when you are not able to self-tan or if you want to faux glow your legs (and arms). All Tarte’s products are packed with fruit complex like goji, acai and pomegranate. Lucy B. Bronzing Body Shimmer Oil is made from organic coconut, jojoba and sunflower oils. Use all over face, body and hair to achieve a fresh sun-kissed look!




Most product listed above can be purchased at www.sephora.com except for certain Nars bronzer shades and Lucy B. products can be found at www.lucybcosmetics.com.

PRO TIPS AND TRICKS:
If you are going to wear bronzer to the pool or beach, check out Cargo's newest line of waterproof bronzers. This product stays put no matter how much you get wet or sweat!

Remember, a little bronzer goes a very long way so use a light touch and build the color onto your face and body! If you find your bronzer leaves your face looking too matte or flat add a pop of color with a pretty blush color.

One more trick up my Pro sleeve; if you are very fair skinned you may want to try using a powder foundation color instead of a bronzer. Look for a shade that is one shade darker than your usual foundation color.



STAY TUNED:
Up next on IMPO – The Loose, The Compact and The Mineralized - all about face powders!

Eye See!

“Who are you going to believe, me or your own eyes?” Groucho Marx

One of the reasons I became a makeup artist is because I wanted to create beauty and one of the most beautiful things about makeup is that “anything goes” (thanks Ethel Merman).

Hands down, the eyes are the first thing people notice about others. You can create connections with a simple glance, so focusing on enhancing your eyes can help build your confidence and self-esteem.

Let’s think of the iconic women of the past and present: Sophia, Elizabeth, Marilyn, Angie, Amy, Lady, Beyonce, Madonna, Queen and Dianna. Not only did these women create trends in fashion, they influenced the world of makeup with one product…eyeliner! With a simple sweep or smudge, these ladies made us stand up and take notice of their beauty and their talent!

Eyeliner defines and enhances a look whether it is the basic 5-minute face at home, the crisp and beautiful appearance from the board room or the bold and courageous look straight off the runway. Eyeliner is the ultimate and men are even jumping on board by embracing Guyliner, made infamous in the 80’s, now men can clasp their metrosexual side with a product line made especially for them!

There are several liner formulas on the market from which to choose and all of them have the power to “pop” your peepers using the right tools and application. Here is the run down:

Liquid Liners: made a major impact in the 40’s, 50’s and 60’s - think Rosie the Riveter. Liquids are extremely long wearing and give you the ability to create very precise dramatic looks like the beloved cat-eye, “winged” or vintage look. These liners can be intimidating, but with practice you can shake the shyness and become a pro!

Pencils: the most popular and easiest to apply, pencil liners are easy to smudge (some more than others based on wax content) and usually have a creamy consistency. Pencils offer a more natural approach to lining and give you more control of the look you are trying to create. They sharpen to a razor-edge point and usually have no irritancy potential.

Kohl: these pencils are softer than traditional pencils and they won’t pull or tug the eye area. They are also more intense in color and blend easier. Some Kohl pencils do not have the ability to be as pointy when sharpened or they come in a roll-up component.

Cake: looks like an eye shadow, but is liner and trumps the longevity of liquid and pencils. You need to get them wet prior to use and a flat eyeliner brush is recommended. These liners are in every pro-makeup artist’s kit and celebrities adore them because they dry instantly after application.

Gel: becoming increasingly more popular because they offer the precision of a liquid liner with ease in application. Gel liners have all the staying power of a liquid, but the formula is thicker like mascara and is used with a small, filbert brush. This product won’t flake and gives you the ability to smudge or blend before it dries.

Stain: this is new on the market and it falls in line with other “stain” type products available to consumers. Lip stain and cheek stain are popular because they are long lasting. This pro is a firm believer in removing all your makeup at night, but stains have a tendency to “hang around” even after a good scrub. I love using eyeliner stains in conjunction with powder eye shadow to prolong wear and intensify color.

Eyeliners come in a rainbow of “flavors” and using liners that are in contrast to your actual eye color will create looks that are wildly sexy! Remember my color wheel from an archive post on concealors? This motto applies to eyeliners too - here is a guide:

Brown eyes – navy or sapphire
Blue eyes – chocolate, taupe, bronze
Green eyes – eggplant, purple, burgundy
Hazel eyes – forest green, emerald

Now that you are ready to receive your certificate in “Eyeliner Perfection,” here is a list of what this Pro carries in her kit and a few tips on application:

Liquid: MAC Liquid Last Liner – this liner comes in so many gorgeous classic and trendy colors! I use this product on the top lash line only to define the eyes. This product has its own brush and has major staying power. Line the entire upper lash area with a thicker line at the outer corner and gradually thinning the line toward the inner corner.



Pencil: Kevyn Aucoin, MAC, Sue Devitt, Tarte – all of these cosmetic lines make eyeliner pencils that provide rich, consistent color and are easy to apply. They blend evenly and soften to create gorgeous smoky effects. I use pencils to line the upper and lower lash line and the inside rim of the top and lower water lines. Apply as close as possible to the lash line to create the illusion of fuller, more lush and natural lashes. Make sure that your top and bottom lines meet at the inside and outside corners to make the eyes appear larger. Not connecting the lines can make the eyes appear smaller or too round depending on the natural eye shape.



Kohl: MAC Eye Kohl, Technakohl Liners, Tarte, Benefit – offer ease in application of soft, silky-smooth color. These liners are very versatile and long wearing. Lining the lower lash line is a breeze and doesn’t irritate or tickle when applied. You can create thick or very thin lines with these pencils.



Cake: La Femme Cake Eye Liners – come in a wide variety of colors from basic black to turquoise. I like to spritz a very thin and pointy eyeliner brush with Evian water and dip the brush into the cake liner. Blot on the back of my hand to remove excess color and apply to upper lash line only. These products won’t flake and dry instantly. Works well with false lashes and I like to double layer this liner with pencil eyeliner first and then cake liner applied over pencil to intensify color.



Gel: Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner – recently awarded Elle Magazines’ Genius Award, In Style’s Magazine’s Best Beauty Buy and Allure Magazine’s Reader’s Choice Award, you can’t go wrong with this amazing liner. It offers the precision of a liquid liner with the ease of a gel-based formula. Allows for smudging or correction prior to drying and comes in a variety of colors. My favorites are Black Ink, Black Plum Ink, Espresso Ink, Graphite Shimmer Ink and Ivy Shimmer Ink. Use in conjunction with Bobbi’s gel eyeliner brush.



Stain: Makeup artist, Mosha Katani developed Sormeh Eye Lining Powder that works as an eyeliner stain. This powder, which is made from castor oil and zinc-oxide is available in black, midnight, nude, purple smoke and rustic brown. I love to use these powders over eye shadow to increase the intensity of the color and longevity. It gives you that gorgeous second-day makeup look that recently ruled the runways!



TIPS AND TRIX:
To brighten the whites of your eyes, use white or nude eyeliner in the water line of your lower lash rim. This technique will also create the illusion of larger eyes. Use a gentle hand and don’t rub the color into the lashes or you will have a clown type effect!

STAY TUNED:
Up next: This yummy product line is sure to stimulate all 5 of your senses!

Center Stage!

Maureen Kelly founded tarte™ cosmetics out of her one-bedroom apartment in New York City back in 1999. She was earning her masters degree in psychology from Columbia University when she became frustrated by the lack of healthy cosmetic product. A beauty junkie at heart, she had a hard time finding products that “worked” and lived up to their claims.

She also recognized a deficiency in consumer-and green-friendly products so she began to research what it would take to manufacture a cosmetic line. Kelly admits, “I am not a makeup artist,” but she has built tarte into one of the most influential cosmetic lines available to consumers and professionals.

I fell in love with tarte years ago when I happened to wander into Sephora and my eye caught sight of the now iconic tarte Cheek Stain. I couldn’t help myself! I had to have it! It made me feel happy just holding it in my hand and when I tested the color; I knew this was something I must have for both my professional kit and my personal makeup bag!

What also impressed me about Maureen and the tarte cosmetic line is that their products are an all-natural blend of vitamins, minerals and natural fruit and plant extracts. This line is 100% free of parabens, sulfates and synthetic fragrances. tarte cosmetics come in cases and compacts that aren’t just pretty on the outside; they help reduce green house emissions! Really! tarte’s components are made of recyclable material and can be re-used or re-purposed. Now that is genius!

Here is a list of some of my all-time favorites from tarte:

Emphaseyes High Definition Eye Pencil – a very slim pencil perfect for lining your upper lash line and on the inner rim. Creamy, longwearing and doesn’t irritate sensitive eyes. This product is available in Black, Chocolate, Green and Plum. If you ask me – one in every color is a necessity!



Cheek Stain – this product is my first tarte love – long-lasting, buildable color that won’t streak. I apply with my fingertips or sponge right to the apples! It gives your skin a very natural glow – like your grandma just pinched your cheeks! This product comes in a variety of colors, but here is what I carry in my kit: Flush (sheer berry red) Tickled (sheer peach/red – this also looks great on the lips) Blissful (warm peach/pink) Bronze Goddess (sheer bronze with shimmer – I have used this on several photo shoots as highlight on cheeks and eyes).



Celebutante Moisturizing Dry Oil Spray – now this product was recently stolen from me by one of my actresses!!! It is a great dry oil shimmer that you can spray on your arms, legs or chest area and it gives your skin an amazing glow – plus it is naturally scented with coconut oil! If you want a pick-me-up this winter or if your skin feels dull and dry, this is one product you will want to order by the gallon!



Emphaseyes for Brows – now hang on ladies because this product is gonna knock you off your stilettos! It is a super-slim, waterproof (yes! I said waterproof) brow pencil that lasts all day! The tip is four times narrower than traditional brow pencils, which will give you the impression of fine brow hair. I can’t live without this product and it is only sold exclusively at QVC!



Are you getting married soon? Need a great idea for a gift for the bride, bridal party or guests? Well your search is over because the geniuses at tarte came up with an incredible idea - Custom Lip Glosses! Log on to tarte’s website and press the custom glosses button at the top of the page and read their offer. You can personalize these glosses with the bride and groom's name! So awesome for engagement parties, bridal showers or wedding favors!

If you haven’t tried tarte cosmetics, you should do yourself a favor and rush down to your local Sephora, order from QVC or from tarte’s website immediately! Your skin and the environment will thank you for it!

Trix of the Trade:
tarte’s Emphaseyes will help you achieve a finished smoky eye! Prior to applying eye shadow, smudge Emphaseyes along your lash line and along the outer and inner rim of the lower lash line. Apply shadow, blend and viola! You are smokin! Don’t forget that these tarte pencils come in a variety of colors so you can play with a smoky eye look using shadow colors other than your traditional black and grey. Try purples, greens and browns for a very sexy, modern, right off the runway effect!