Showing posts with label mineral makeup. Show all posts
Showing posts with label mineral makeup. Show all posts

Mineral Maven!


In the television, film and theatre industry, lighting plays a key role in how makeup translates on the big or little screen and live from the stage. Pro makeup artists use a ton of different foundations, contours, highlights and pigments on the skin in order to project color through the camera lens because the intensity of the lighting can make everyday makeup disappear.

Not a week goes by that I don’t get a request from an actress or actor in a pre-production meeting asking me to use mineral cosmetics and my reply is the same every time, “I have researched several mineral brands and have not found a product line that has enough pigment to read on camera correctly!” But, I kept on researching and finally I have found a mineral cosmetic that has great pigmentation and coverage.



Purely Cosmetics is the best mineral line I have ever used and I was not a believer in any form of mineral cosmetics before I started using this product. Robyn Bloom is the beauty and the brain behind this brand, which she started 10 years ago after she lost her “day” job due to back issues.



Her girlfriend had sent her a Bare Minerals Kit for Christmas and Robyn loved the way the mineral products applied quickly and easily and how it felt as if you didn’t have any makeup on your skin. However, what she didn’t like was the fact that most of the eye shadows and cheek colors had so much glitter in them, that they actually accentuated the “bags” under her eyes instead of hiding them!

She decided to research what it would take to start her own line and because her background was in science, she found websites where she could buy raw materials in small quantities and started playing around with the ingredients.

She discovered that there were several harmful elements in most of the mineral cosmetic lines available to the consumer. Robyn was able to remove those harsh components from her line and fill a void for the more mature woman by removing the major sparkle and providing matte or slight shimmer colors.



Let’s get educated on harmful ingredients, shall we…

Bismuth Oxychloride is a major ingredient in most mineral products and it is a skin irritant for many, so Robyn formulated a her product line to be free from this mineral. Also, Purely Cosmetics do not contain talc, cornstarch or preservatives and there are no micronized ingredients, which are easily inhaled and can be troublesome for asthmatics or individuals suffering from respiratory problems.

WebMD says, “Bismuth is a byproduct of lead and copper processing, even though it is a mineral, it’s not found in the earth.” Basically, if you wear a mineral makeup, I would run and check the ingredients list of your current product and toss it in the garbage if it contains Bismuth!



This product line is ideal for sensitive skin or those with acne, rosacea or eczema and the zinc oxides and titanium oxides in the product act as natural sunscreen without clogging pores. It will give the skin a natural looking luminosity and provides even coverage with a lightweight feel.

In fact, if you log on to the Purely Cosmetics’ website you will find that this line was compared in terms of ingredients, size, price and cost per gram of product against many other popular mineral lines, including Bare Escentuals, GLO Minerals, Sheer Cover, Youngblood, Arbonne and Pur Minerals to name just a few. Check out how Purely Cosmetics “stacked” up to those considered the “best” by clicking here!

Robyn was kind enough to send this Pro a bunch of products to experiment with under television lighting during a recent HD shoot and I was incredibly surprised by the pigmentation and coverage provided by the foundation, eye shadow and blush colors.

Here is the beauty breakdown:

I started by prepping my actress’ skin with eye cream and moisturizer, letting it absorb into the skin while the hairstylist worked on her hair.

Upon her return to my makeup chair, I applied Purely Cosmetics’ Silk & Pearl Powder Primer to the entire face and began mixing together two Foundation colors; Calif Blonde (light) and Neutral Light. I did break out my Eve Pearl Concealer Trio prior and covered a few deep scars and very dark circles that would “read” on HD harshly.





Next, I applied Dior Bronzer in Honey Matte as a contour (not because I didn’t like Purely Cosmetics’ Bronzer, but only because Robyn didn’t send me a sample – hint, hint if you are reading this Robyn!!!). However, she did send me the most gorgeous blush color called Blushing that provided my actress with the most naturally radiant warm “flush” tone on her face.



I set the face with the Pure Silk Powder and moved on to my actress’ eyes. Choosing 4 shades from the “haul” of color so generously bestowed upon me; Cappuccino (for lid), Dark Brown Matte (for crease), Matte Mauve (for corner of eye) and Nearly Nude (for brow bone). I lined the eyes with Pruely Cosmetics’ Cream to Powder eye shadow in Dark Brown on the top and bottom lash lines. Mascara was my trusted drug store CoverGirl Lash Blast and lips were lined with a natural tone liner and M.A.C. Twig Lipstick.






Now, the time came for my actress to take her “mark” on camera and as we entered the sound stage, I was holding my breath in hopes that this product line would not let me down! I stared into the monitor, crossing my fingers with my left hand and my right hand firmly gripping my “actor” bag containing “back up“ product I could use to quickly cover up the mineral makeup, but guess what? I did not need that “other” makeup; Purely Cosmetics was incredible on camera.



Flash forward to the next morning and I thought, “hey, if my actress looked amazing yesterday, I should try Purely Cosmetics on my skin!” I marched downstairs and grabbed the product from my makeup kit and started to go to work! I am over 40 and have dry skin with an oily t-zone. I absolutely loved how this mineral line covered up my skin issues and diminished my fine lines and wrinkles!

I am a cream foundation girl, but Purely Cosmetics will be in my personal and professional makeup kit from now forward as an alternative to my traditional products! The eye shadow and blush pigments are lovely and a matte finish is my personal choice with a slight shimmer, which diffuses light off my brow bone and cheek area (which I feel makes me look younger)!

Got Teenagers? Me too! Once I was thoroughly schooled on the ingredients in and performance of this mineral line, I sprinted into my teenage daughter’s bathroom, ripped open their cosmetic bags and dumped all the other brands of mineral cosmetics I had purchased for my girls onto the floor and began reading the ingredients. Let’s just say, I was disgusted by what I found and promptly trashed at least $100 worth of cosmetics, but they will be replaced with Purely’s line very soon!



You can imagine how much my girls love makeup and are always asking to “borrow” something I am using, but I make sure that they understand not only how to take care of their skin, but what it means to wear cosmetics, how to apply them properly and how to remove them so as not to damage that genetically gorgeous skin they have been blessed to have been given.

I highly recommend this mineral line and have not found another that was able to live up to my high expectations as a mom and professional makeup artist! Thanks Robyn for creating a wonderful alternative for the consumer!

Purely Cosmetics can be purchased online at www.purelycosmetics.com and here is another bonus, if you have a question, guess who will respond? Robyn herself – how’s that for customer service!

PRO TIPS & TRICKS:
Check out these great ideas from Purely Cosmetics; their products are so pure and so versatile that you can mix them with clear nail polish and create your very own color! Also, mix with your favorite clear lip balm and create your own personal lipstick color! Mix the foundation with one or two drops of moisturizer for a creamy base for extra dry skin. Wet it and use as an eyeliner!



STAY TUNED:
Up next on IMPO: It’s time to embrace your inner Rock Star!!! Learn how to create a Smoky Eye for both day and night!

Last Looks!



There is a term used in the television and film industry called “Last Looks!” Let’s pretend we are on set and you hear the AD shout that phrase, what you would see next are crew members from the makeup, hair and wardrobe departments jump to attention and rush to spritz, tug and primp the actor/actress before the camera begins to roll.



This Pro likes to apply face powder at the time that “Last Looks” are called because that is when the star of the show or movie must look perfect. Face Powders, whether loose or pressed, set foundation and concealer after application and prepare the face for “powder” cheek and eye color. However, the most important job of a face powder is to minimize shine by soaking up oil or sweat produced by the skin. When working under the hot lights of a movie set trying to keep the skin matte can sometimes be very challenging.



The good news is that there are many “industry” face powders that cross over into the consumer-friendly world of beauty and they are available to you for everyday use (you just need to know where to get them). Also, several mass-marketed cosmetic lines manufacture face powders that work miracles and require little touch-up during the day (you just need to know what they are)!

But first, here are the basics…

Loose Powder: dense texture and provides more coverage. Applied with brush, sponge or powder puff. Matte or sheer finish.

Pressed Powder: same properties as a loose powder “pressed” into a compact. Applied with brush, sponge or powder puff. Less coverage because it dispenses small amounts of product on face. Matte or sheer finish. Best for touch-ups.

Color: like foundation and concealer, face powders are sold in a range of colors to match the skin tone. Translucent powder is invisible and is preferred by this Pro.

Ingredients: the most common ingredients in face powders are talc, cornstarch mica and zinc. If you are allergic to any of those elements, we recommend switching to mineralized powder products, which may be better for you.

Tools: a powder brush is large and dome shaped picking up less product and allowing for a sheer application. Use a powder puff to apply a heavier amount to face and gently blot or press into the skin; sweeping the puff will cause a “streaking” effect on the face. The sponge is used in the same manner as puff and applies a sheer amount.

Other: very oily skin can change the color of powder. If you use a colored face powder, choose a color that is 1 or 2 shades lighter than your foundation to allow for oxidation.

Issues: most women suffer from cakey powder application and one of the most common misconceptions is that too much powder was applied. While that could be true, it is more likely that the skin was not prepped properly: either not enough or too much moisturizer was applied to the skin. That situation can cause the face powder to have too much “grab” and where the build up of product occurs is most likely where the moisturizer application was uneven or not absorbed properly prior to makeup application.

Here is a valuable tip: prep skin with all accoutrement (serum, moisturizer, eye cream, primer, etc.) and allow 10 minutes to absorb. Fold up facial tissue into a square and “blot” excess product and oil off skin. Now begin application of cosmetics.

Another common problem is flakiness after powder application, which is caused by the skin being too dry and solved by simply bumping up the amount of moisturizer used in skin prep (but not too much because you will have the Cakey problem above). Tricky huh? But, with practice and over time, you will discover your inner makeup artist and kiss those issues good-bye!

Here is a list of products that this Pro recommends:

Cinema Secrets Translucent Powder - typically an “industry” product perfect for setting foundation. Finely milled, clump-free, antiperspirant powder. Translucent formula or available in several warm shades. Purchase on line at www.professionalsecrets.stores.yahoo.net.



Tricia Sawyer Beauty’s The Powder– loose, colorless setting powder made of finely milled cotton for maximum absorbency and controls shine throughout the day. Sheer coverage and works on all skin tones. Available online at www.sephora.com or www.triciasawyer.com.



Visiora PC Powder Compact - this is Dior's "industry" line and is incredible to set foundation or used on bare skin. Heavier coverage with a matte, satin finish. Good for all skin tones and types. This is the choice of many Pro MUAs. Available online at www.camerareadycosmetics.com.



Graftobian Face Powder – works with all skin tones and types and provides a soft, matte finish. Minimizes shine. Available online at www.paintandpowderstore.com.



Make Up Forever HD Microfinish Powder -
a universal translucent finishing powder can be worn alone to reduce shine or applied to set foundation. Completely evens out the complexion and is made of 100% mineral silica powder. Available online at www.sephora.com.



Smashbox Halo Hydrating Perfecting Powder – this powder reduces fine lines and wrinkles in 10 minutes! It is the first anti-aging powder with skincare built in. Available online at www.smashbox.com or www.sephora.com.



Eve Pearl Photo Finish Pressed Powder Neutral – apply with powder puff in rolling motion across the face to set foundation. This is a light-diffusing, sheer pressed powder that eliminates shine and to defuse skin discolorations. Perfect for travel. Available online at www.evepearl.com.



MAC Blot Powder – this is an industry standard with many color ranges to perfectly match your skin tone. Provides shine control without adding noticeable color or texture. Absorbs excess oil and reduces shine. Available at www.maccosmetics.com or at fine retailers.



Purely Cosmetics’ Finishing Powder – this mineral makeup line does not use fillers, preservatives or irritating ingredients that can cause breakouts on the skin. This product line is quickly becoming the preferred mineral line for all age groups and works especially well for women with more mature skin. It aids in oil absorption and adds a smooth, matte finish to skin. This powder is colorless and is made of 100% pure silk. Perfect for those seeking a natural mineral cosmetic line. This Pro also recommends this product for young adults and teens. Purchase online at www.purelycosmetics.com.



“All right Mr. De Mille, I’m ready for my close-up.” And so will you! Before you step out of the house, or into the office for the big interview, or answer the door for that hot date, don’t forget to take a “Last Look!” A final set of powder will help your makeup stay put through life’s big moments!



PRO TIPS AND TRICKS:
If you suffer from extremely oil skin try using blotting papers before or in between face powder touch ups. This will help to avoid powder buildup in areas around the nose and mouth. Also, if powder tends to cake in the fine lines and wrinkles around the eye area, then avoid excess powdering in that area. Set foundation and concealer placed under eye and do not touch-up frequently during the day. If you feel you have excess eye oil and find that your eye shadow and liner fade during the day, try using a eyelid primer such as Urban Decay’s Eye Shadow Primer Potion available at Sephora.



STAY TUNED:
Up next on IMPO– guest blogger Carissa from Hooked on Beauty! She is a Pro MUA and has a great product review blog. Find out what cosmetic and beauty products she can’t live without personally and professionally!



*above photo credit: Flicker.com