Valentine's Day How-To by Heather Wilson

A very special and romantic holiday is almost upon us! A day where it is tradition that lovers express their fondness by presenting each other with tokens of endearment!

To celebrate Valentine’s Day, you are probably thinking about purchasing a new outfit and shoes, how you will wear your hair and we hope that you are considering trying something new with your makeup.

No matter who you are spending this day with, be it a special partner or a single ladies night out, the Pros at IMPO want to suggest two makeup looks that are actually easy to achieve despite their intimidation!

Now, we all have our comfort level for an evening or special event makeup look, but this is the day to try something a little extra! So, the Pro’s want you to ask yourself…”are you more comfortable with a brighter lip, or a smokey eye?”

  

In this post, Pro makeup artist and IMPO writer, Heather Wilson will guide you through six easy steps on how to wear a red lip or a smokey eye and she will show you the products she uses to attain both of these looks.

Here is how she does it:

For most of us, we don’t feel comfortable in a bolder lip, but if you have found that perfect red and you are willing to try something new, then Valentine's Day is definitely the day to rock it! 

Let's begin...

First: start with super moisturized and exfoliated skin.

Second: mix 1/2 a pump of Make Up For Ever Uplight with your foundation to get that soft glow (if you tend to be more oily in your T-zone, you will not want to put this product on your forehead, nose or chin). This is also the time to conceal any skin flaws, irritations or dark circles with your favorite concealer product and then set the entire face with a neutral powder.

Third: use Laura Mercier Eye Shadow Base in Wheat to get a nice nude eyelid, but any “bone” colored shadow will do. Then take a color like MAC’s Soft Brown and smudge into top and bottom lashes. You can also add a very thin line of black, liquid eyeliner to define the upper lash line, but feel free to skip this step because if you do not feel confident in using this product the look can turn “vintage” quickly. This would also be the time to fill in your eyebrows with a matching color if needed.

Fourth: apply plenty of black mascara in your favorite brand and you can try a full or half set of false lashes. We love Ardell’s #105 or #301 for accent.

Fifth: a light application of bronzer like Bobbi Brown’s Maui Illuminating Bronzing Powder will sculpt cheekbones and add a slight bit of shimmer.

Sixth: to get a flawless red lip that will last through out the night make sure your lips are not chapped or flaky. Apply a matching red lip liner and use Yaby Cosmetics Lipstick in LC184. Finish the look with a little gloss just in the center of the lip. Alternative red lips that I love are: NARS 413 BLKR Larger Than Life Lip Gloss or Pure Matte Lipstick and Lipstick Queen’s Sinner or Saint.

4 more red lippies that are Pro favorites worth mentioning are all from NYX Cosmetics; Mega Shine Lip Gloss in Perfect Red, Xtreme Lip Cream in Spicy and Absolute Red and Soft Matte Lip Cream in Amsterdam.

Maybe you are more of the smokey eye type! If so, I am going to suggest mainly using soft plums for a more romantic flare than the traditional concrete tones popular with rock stars!

Let's begin...

First, follow the same steps for your skin prep, foundation, concealer and powder listed above. Then continue on with...

Eyes: Again, using Laura Mercier Eye Shadow Base not so much as an overall color this time, but instead to hold the shadows in place. Then use three of Yaby Cosmetics Pearl Shadows on the lid: PP017, PP038, PP047 and under the lower lash line. Take a black eyeshadow, such as NARS Night Breed and smudge it into the outer corner and elongate. I love to use Smashbox Gel Liner in Midnight Black softly smudged into the upper lash line because it will stay put all night.

Again as listed above, use a soft bronzer to sculpt your cheeks, fill in your brows if necessary, apply plenty of black mascara and false lashes then...

Lips: Use Make Up For Ever’s Rouge Artist Intense in Satin Blackcurrant for an intense pigment that will match the plum colored eyes. Alternatives are; YSL Rouge Pur Couture Gloss in Violet Edition, Sephora Collection Rogue Cream Lipstick in Crush 23 or a little lighter tone with a hint of brown is Bobbi Brown's Lipstick in Raisin.

If you just can't handle the combo of a smokey eye and a matching dark lip then swap for a soft nude with a hint of pink, but that is playing it safe and on Valentine's Day I say step out of your comfort zone and have a little fun!

Remember to take your time, apply your makeup well and don’t rush! It is important to blend…blend…blend and blend some more for a flawless finish!

Wishing everyone a very Happy Valentine's Day!

*all cosmetics listed above can be purchased online or at your nearest Sephora retailer. Yaby Cosmetics can be purchased from their online site or from Camera Ready Cosmetics.

*photos courtesy of Makeup by Heather Wilson.

False Lashes - Let's Get It On!

In the backstage world of a Hollywood film set, television production, or Broadway play there is a product we as professional makeup artists use time and time again…the false eyelash!

False eyelashes are a blessing to many, a burden to some, but truth told: a properly applied false lash can bring out the beauty in the beast. You just have to know how to “get it on!”

Let us take a little journey down the road of the false eyelash…

Legend has it that American movie director G.W. Griffith designed the first pair of fake lashes in 1916 for his film Intolerance, because he wanted his Princess Beloved character to have lashes that were so long, they would gently touch her cheeks when she looked down. A wig maker set to work creating these lashes out of human hair and gauze and the rest is movie magic history. However, actress Seena Owen who portrayed Princess Beloved found the false lashes so cumbersome that she could only wear them a few hours at at time, otherwise her eyes would swell shut!




Marlene and Marilyn would be the next famous icons to spotlight “falsies” in the way that they were intended and then we have the unfortunate cases embedded into our memories forever a la Tammy Faye Baker!





The 60s brought us Twiggy! Women and teens loved a great false lash look and they did not hesitate to wear a thick, black lash that was obviously fake! This time period was also the birth of the cluster lash and individual lashes that were applied only by a professional cosmetologist. We have come a long way baby!



Fast forward to current time and you will discover that false lashes made from human, sable or mink hair are the most popular amongst celebrities like Madonna. However, synthetic material in various colors and textures are available to the everyday consumer by simply walking into your local drugstore. Feathers, sequins, diamonds and other accoutrements are also a large part of “today’s” false lash made famous by the legendary makeup artist Shu Uemura.




But what you really want to know is how to make eyes at the world like a Pro and get those false lashes on and have them stay on…so here is what you need to know…

MUST HAVES:
Toothpicks
Mascara
Manicure Scissors
False Lash
Liquid Liner
Black False Lash Glue
Tweezers

ADVICE:
Decisions, Decisions – you will need to decide what look you are seeking. A full-set of false lashes creates high drama and clumps or individual lashes are more subtle or sophisticated. There are no hard and fast rules so have at it girl and rock those lashes!




Apply Last – all other makeup should be on and set with powder. Leave lashes free of mascara and any other lash product (plumpers, conditioners, etc.).

HOW TO:
Remove It – use a tweezer to gently remove the lash from the packaging, pulling from the outer corner. If you are using individual lashes you will also want to remove them with a tweezer. Do not remove the strip lash from the inner corner because you will cause the lash to lose its natural curvature.

Trim It – hold lash up to natural lashes and measure. If false lashes are too long, use small scissors and snip off a few clumps at the outer corner – not the inner corner. However, there is always a tiny piece of the false lash strip that sticks out from the inner corner and that should be snipped off prior to application.

Glue It – using a black lash glue either a) directly apply the glue to the strip from the tube or b) use a toothpick and squeeze out a tiny amount of the glue onto a palette or other non-stick surface. Dip the tip of the toothpick into the glue and run it along the strip of the lash. Individual lashes use same method of squeezing out glue onto non-stick surface and dip end of false lash into glue holding with tweezer. The toothpick is a sure-fire method for not over applying eyelash glue. DO NOT APPLY LASH GLUE DIRECTLY TO NATURAL LASH LINE (trust me, I have seen this happen).

Stick It – place a mirror on your bathroom counter (or look into a wall mirror)– you are trying to achieve looking down, not necessarily closing your eye. Place false lashes above your natural lashes, as close to your lash line as possible following the natural curve, press down and adjust if necessary. Recently I was schooled on the Pearl Method of applying false lashes and I have started to use this application in all of my work. Celebrity Makeup Artist, Eve Pearl invented this technique and you can view her instructional video by clicking here.

Coat It – let glue dry for several minutes and apply mascara to both the natural and false lash to adhere them together.

DOS AND DON'TS:

Do have fun with false lashes!

Do not be afraid to try out a natural lash and wear it during the day!

Don’t over apply lash glue!

Don’t panic if you glue your eye shut – it will not stay that way – just gently remove the false lash and begin over!

Do try to find a false lash that has a black strip, but if you are using lashes with a clear strip – take the advice of Eve Pearl and coat the clear strip with black liquid liner and let dry before removing from the packaging!

Don’t sleep in false lashes!

Do use a false lash to achieve a balanced look and trim them if necessary!

Do pull lash gently when removing!

TIPS AND TRICKS:
Drugstore or beauty supply stores carry a wide variety of synthetic false lashes that can work for any occasion day or night. Ardell is this Pro’s choice, but recently I tested Revlon false lashes and was pleased with the result. Both are wonderful and reasonably priced. However, these are one-time wear only lashes unlike Shu Uemura’s lashes that can be removed, cleaned and worn again. Also, I mention using black false eyelash glue above - try to find it if you can because it dries black and won't change the color of your eyeliner. White glue is supposed to dry clear, but not always.

STAY TUNED:
Next up on In My Professional Opinion: Spotlight on Smashbox!



Photos courtesy: My Diva's Closet and Shu Uemura USA.