Fountain of Youth!



It seems as if we have summer on the brain here at IMPO considering our last two posts were all about sweat-proof and beach appropriate makeup "dos"!  Also in our last post, this Pro mentioned some makeup contentions that get under my skin and make me cranky, but I left a few peeves out thinking they would be perfect to mention here (and because I would like to think that our reader’s benefit from my misfortunes).

This Pro has worked with so many lovely individuals over the past 20 years, but I have to say that what I notice most about some of my clients (who shall remain nameless) is that they don’t treat themselves very well.

Oh sure, they have fame, fortune and everything that goes with it (isn’t that a song lyric?), but when they sit in my chair and expect me to work miracles on skin that has been exposed to excessive cigarette smoke, dehydrated from too much partying, overly spray tanned to the point that Oompa Loompa orange is now their skin tone, or they look like a two-dollar hooker because they were too tired to remove their makeup last night, it can turn this very patient MUA into Mommy Dearest (now you know why there is a wire hanger in my makeup kit – wink, wink)!

They think that their “on call” estheticians, dermatologists, plastic surgeons and makeup artists (like me) will repair the damage (and we do for a price), but wouldn’t it be better for their bank accounts if they just took good care of their skin?  Spoiled brats!

Maybe I am in the wrong business?  Maybe I should be a mapmaker!  Instead of selling “Maps of the Stars Homes," those people on the corner of Sunset and Vine could sell my maps to the “Stars” directing them to the Fountain of Youth!

Here is what it would say…proceed straight into your bathroom and hang a right (or a left) till you reach your sink; stop, look both ways to make sure it is safe and reach across the vanity until you can grab your cleanser or face wash and scrub that makeup off your face!  Washing your face twice a day everyday, moisturizing, eating right, drinking water and most importantly, using sunscreen will ensure that your skin stays baby soft, tight and smooth!  I would even provide a compass rose in the bottom corner for authenticity purposes!

Doesn’t this seem easy?  Then tell me why I see women (and men) on the daily with wrinkled, leathery, chapped, flaky and burned skin begging for my help!  I am a makeup artist, not a magician and if I were their mother, I would spank their tushie and put them in the corner!

Sunscreen is crucial to having younger looking skin!  You must apply sunscreen everyday to your face and body regardless of whether or not you think your skin is being exposed to the sun.  Just driving in your car to work, the light is reflected and hitting the skin on your face, neck, chest and hands aging them in the process.

For this post, I have consulted with a dear friend and dermatologist and she tells me that in the past 20 years, the number of skin cancers and melanoma has doubled, with many victims under the age of 40!  Even if it is cloudy, overcast or it is the middle of winter, your skin needs protection.

She says, "here is how you can be sure you are using enough sunscreen this summer; if your sunscreen bottle is 120-ml, which is enough full-body daily protection for 2 months and you have half a bottle left at the end of summer…you have not used enough!"  Make sense?  You need more than you think!

If you stay out of the sun between the hours of 11 a.m. and 3 p.m., you can get away with using an SPF of 15, but if you are going to the beach, golfing, hiking, waterskiing or engaging in any type of outdoor activity between those hours, you should use an SPF of 30 or higher.

I know, I know…you are going to ask, “what about getting a golden tan?”  Notice how no one ever asks, “what about being all wrinkled and splotchy and having surgery to remove skin cancer?”   It’s your life!  I am just passing along some very sound advice!

Here are the facts about sunscreen (aka sunblock); is a lotion, spray or gel that absorbs or reflects some of the sun’s ultraviolet (UV) radiation on the skin exposed to sunlight and thus helps protect against sunburn – Wikipedia.

According to the American Cancer Society, the use of sunscreen prevents the squamous cell carcinoma and the basal cell carcinoma however, the use of sunscreens is controversial because many do not block UVA radiation, which does not cause sunburn, but can increase the rate of melanoma.  So, you should be looking for sunscreen with UVB and UVA protection.

Here is a list of this Pro’s sunscreen must haves;

SkinCeuticals – Daily Sun Defense SPF 30 – UVA/UVB sunscreen with transparent titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.  Use on body and face.

SkinCeuticals – Sport UV Defense SPF 45 – UVA/UVB sunscreen with transparent zinc oxide, water and sweat resistant for face and body.

Shiseido Suncare Ultimate Sun Protection Cream SPF 55 – nourishing sunscreen for the face that provides the ultimate protection from UVA and UVB rays.  Also protects against sun-induced premature signs of aging.  For use on face and body.

Cosmedicine – Global Health Face UVA/UVB SPF 30 Sunscreen – delivers broad spectrum protection with no irritation, resists sweat and humidity.  Won’t run or drip into the eye area. For use on face.

Jan Marini Antioxidant Daily Face Protectant - Waterproof formula with powerful antioxidants and hydrating complexes.  Does not feel greasy and absorbs into skin easily. For use on face.

Aveeno – Continuous Protection Sunblock SPF 50 – long lasting, waterproof and lightweight in convenient, one-touch spray.  This Pro’s kids wear this all summer long.  It is so easy for them to apply and protect those hard to reach areas.  Since we go through so much sunscreen during the year, this is also economical!  For use on body only. Great for sensitive skin.

Pro Tip: don't forget to apply sunscreen to your ears, tops of your feet and to your scalp if you are not wearing a hat. These areas can be very painful if sunburned!

Speciality sun protection products:

ColoreScience – Sunforgettable SPF 30 Brush – quick and easy application – best for use on face and neck.  Refillable, recyclable and reusable.  Matte or sparkle texture.  Available colors: clear, perfectly clear, almost clear.  This Pro uses the matte formula for on-set touch up.  Only negative is that you cannot clean the brush!  Component is such that cleaning or disinfecting the brush will cause cleanser to leak into the sunscreen powder, which means that each actor must have their own individual product to avoid contamination.

Make Up Forever – SPF 50 primer - my friend and fellow Pro MUA, Victoria Stiles, turned me on to this amazing primer.  It minimizes pores and fine lines while protecting the skin from UVA/UVB rays.  Victoria suggests wearing this under a foundation that does not contain an SPF to prevent "white out" during flash photography.  Click here to read more!

Kate Somerville – Protect SPF 55 Serum Sunscreen – a quick absorbing, oil free formula that delivers powerful sun protection and a rich dose of antioxidants for further protection against damage and premature aging.  No white residue.  Apply after washing face and before moisturizer.

Shiseido – Sun Protection Lip Treatment SPF 36 – nourishing lip balm that defends against UVA/UVB rays and also provides moisture to reverse dryness.

the Balm – BalmShelter SPF 17 Tinted Gloss – this Pro is totally in love with this lip gloss and wears it all summer long!  It is long-wearing and protects against those UV rays.  Favorite colors:  Daddy’s Girl, Uptown Girl, Dream Girl and Girl Scout. 

After sun products:

jeune d’age organics – after sun exposure and proper cleansing of the face to remove toxins, use this serum to help replenish your skin's moisture.  It is great for dry skin and will absorb quickly without a greasy feel.  This product is housed in individual packets so that each application will be fresh and less oxidized.  Great for travel.  All natural/organic skin care.

Avene – After-Sun Care Lotion - light weight, non greasy lotion that restores skin's barrier and prevents moisture loss. Soothes, calms and cools the skin after sun exposure.

 PRO TIPS AND TRICKS:

Don’t exfoliate before going out into the sun because that can increase your risk for sunburn and do not exfoliate after a sunburn!  Wait until the redness is gone before resuming exfoliation.  If you have recently had any form of chemical peel you should avoid all sun exposure until your doctor determines your skin has fully healed.  Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids can increase the severity of sunburns so they are not recommended after sun exposure. You can use various products containing Aloe, Tea Tree Oil or Chamomile to help heal and soothe sunburn pain and itchiness from peeling skin.

STAY TUNED:

Up next on IMPO - we are on hiatus for about a week!  During our short break this Pro will be filming in Paris, France and the other Pro will be attending the upcoming IMATs Convention in Pasadena, California.  Make sure you follow us on Twitter because this Pro will be "twittering" live from the set in Paris or fan us on Facebook and keep in touch through our status updates (both buttons are located on the IMPO sidebar)!  We will be back soon!


2 comments:

  1. What a great article...I've noticed this with models esp...I think that A. they are young and into partying and B. rely too much on the photog to photoshop the effects of it all.
    When I first started building my book I was SO shocked by some of the "models" skin..I've even had photogs be like "dont' worry we'll jus ps"
    ..it amazed me because you really can look 40 when your 20 if you "live hard"...(now if I could only follow my own advice to a T all the time...)!!!!!

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