Summer Dream = BB Cream

When summer really hits the last thing anyone feels like doing is putting on gobs of makeup! The current weather in your area may be unbearably hot and sticky, but you still want to look and feel amazing as you walk out the door to your job, a date or for a quick shopping trip.

The Pros had heard of the current trend called the BB Cream and at first we thought it was such a gimmick that we overlooked several samples sent to us to try. We thought the product would be just another tinted moisturizer with a few extra ingredients inside, so we tossed the samples in a bin and made a note that we would get to test out the product eventually.

Well…on a recent and very long layover at London’s Heathrow Airport, Pro MUA Melissa Street wandered into the Boots No7 store to pass a little time. While perusing the aisles she came across the No7 Beautiful Skin BB Cream and remembered about the samples sitting in the “bin” back home. She noticed that several women waiting in line to check out had this cream in their baskets and since she had 5 hours to “kill” she figured it was time to get educated and started to play around with the testers.

Mel immediately discovered the difference between a BB Cream and a Tinted Moisturizer…it was not only the ingredients, it was the amount of coverage the cream provided. One thing that Mel personally disliked about using a tinted moisturizer was that the coverage was too light and she always felt the need to use a concealer on her over 40 skin.

Now, the main thing about a BB Cream is that it is a unique 3-1 formula – moisturizer, primer, SPF – all rolled into one while at the same time enhancing the skin with a tint of foundation. It is a multitasking product that eliminates the need to pile on massive skin prep as well as foundation.

Not all BB Creams are alike though…some provide a light or heavier SPF ranging from 15 to 45. Others have 5-1 ingredients by adding pearl pigments for a natural glow or minerals, antioxidants, vitamins, etc., to boost skin elasticity. Some have a matte effect on the skin and some massively hydrate. The bottom line is…the market is becoming saturated with BB Creams so how do you find the one that is right for you?

The Pros have now tested about 15 different BB Creams and have narrowed it down to 4 of our favorite. All provide different results and all of the following recommendations can be used on all skin types.

Boots No7 Beautiful Skin BB Cream – this was the very first cream the Pros tried and we fell head over heals for the coverage! This product has a heavier coverage than a typical BB Cream. Contains an SPF of 15, it comes it two colors – Fair or Medium. Not a ton of range when it comes to skin tone, but the Medium color will work up to light Olive toned skin. Comes in 3 formulas: Normal/Dry, Normal/Oily or Dry/Very Dry. This product disguises imperfections and in some cases eliminates the need for a concealer. Blends beautifully on the skin by applying with a brush, sponge or fingers. Some formulas set more matte so wait about 5 minutes to let it settle into the skin before lightly powdering – you may find you do not need to powder at all!

Smashbox Camera Ready BB Cream SPF 35 – this product provides amazing medium coverage and can be applied under typical foundation or worn alone. It does eliminate large pores and controls oil. Contains an “optical pearl pigment” that helps give skin a glow eliminating looking too flat or too matte. The color range has 5 colors to choose from in Fair to Dark. We prefer to apply and blend this product with a stipple brush or Beauty Blender Sponge. This formulation is best for normal to dry skin or slightly oily textures (in the T-Zone) and great for more mature skin.

Embryolisse Complexion Illuminating Veil – BB Cream – SPF 20 – this cream is great for oily skin because it contains mineral powders that will help to mattify the skin and control oil throughout the day. Contains a potent moisturizer, hyaluronic acid and color-changing pigments, which mean one color for all! This product is universal and will change to match your skintone. The Pros have found that this product settles into the skin very matte so there is little need to powder. Provides a lighter coverage but still blurs pores and fine lines while concealing minor imperfections. We prefer to apply this product with our fingers or a stipple brush.

Senna Cosmetics Barley Base – this product by far has the best range when it comes to skin tone colors with 7 to choose from – light to a deep dark. Contains an SPF of 20, this product has very light coverage, is oil-free, fragrance-free and longwearing. This product is mineral infused which provides a youthful, healthy glow. It does boost elasticity and will prevent your skin from looking dull in texture. It has a sheer coverage so you may feel the need to use a concealer to cover more pronounced skin imperfections or a break out. Good for all skin types and we prefer to apply this product a sponge or brush for an even application.

All the BB Creams listed above contain a minimal amount of SPF so it is recommended that if you prefer more sun protection that you apply a thin, even layer of facial sunscreen first, but let the sunscreen sink into the skin for about 10 minutes before applying the BB Cream. We recommend Jan Marini's Antioxidant Daily Face Protectant SPF 30.

Also, it is important to note that the BB Creams listed above are not waterproof nor is the sunscreen within the product so make sure to reapply after swimming or long term exposure to the sun!

The Pros love a fresh makeup look, especially in the summer and we prefer to use products that are more long lasting, so now is the time to try those cream blushes and eye shadows too in brighter, fun colors!

Stay cool!

THE MAKEUP SHOW LA 2012

Every year the Pros here at IMPO wait patiently for the start of our convention season…well it’s not really a “season” because we only have two a year here in So Cal, but whatever!

We do our research, make our lists and try to find out which manufactures will have booths and which professionals will be teaching. There is nothing like “show discounts” and we stock up on everything from kit essentials to the newest gadgets, as well as bone up on our makeup skills to keep up-to-date on the latest techniques and technology!

The Makeup Show Los Angeles held this year in March 2012 was so much bigger and better than in previous years (even though the past shows have been pretty great). Jammed packed with 4,500 attendees ranging from beauty professionals, buyers, press, industry educators and retailers.

This year celebrity makeup artists Troy Jensen (Cameron Diaz, Alyssa Milano, Diana Ross, Eva Mendes, Megan Fox), Mario Dedivanovic (Kim Kardashian), Bill Corso (Hunger Games, X-Men, Indiana Jones, John Carter, Nip/Tuck) and Sharon Gault (Michael Jackson, Madonna, Lady GaGa) all shared their makeup tips and tricks! As well as classes and demos taught by Make Up For Ever, Temptu and MUD, which made the IMPO team feel like we had just relived 6 months of makeup school!

But, we know that our readers are mainly interested in the product we purchased and why…so, here is a taste of our “haul!”

Beauty Blender: this egg-shaped reusable sponge is amazing. We know that there are many duplicates on the market and the Pros have tried most of them. To us, nothing compares! We use it to blend all forms of foundation, concealer, cream blush, contour or highlight. Used dry or wet, we prefer wet, this sponge blends products to perfection – use stippling or bouncing method for best results.

Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Lip Tar: as makeup artists we are always on the hunt for new product to add to our kits however, they have to be workhorses for us to invest. Lip Tars not only last for hours, you will barely need more than a “bead” sized amount to get major results, so this product will last you a very long time. Applies like a lipstick but feels like a gloss. We purchased: Hush, Trollop, Kava Kava, Ophelia, Mélange, Pennyroyal, Memento and NSFW! Apply with fingers or brush, but the key is to use very little product to avoid feathering. 100% Vegan and cruelty free!

Bdellium Tools: we feel that you can NEVER have enough brushes! The trick is finding the “right” brush that accomplishes the finish you are trying to achieve. A makeup artist is only as good as their tools and if you think like an artist painting on canvas then there are different brushes for different “paint!” Our newest obsession is with Bdellium’s Studio Line. These brushes are antibacterial and eco-friendly using only natural and/or synthetic fibers. We purchased: #990s Angled Face, #975S Mixed Powder, #555U Retractable Lip, #731S Mascara Fan, but more are on our radar like: #708S Bent Eyeliner, #785S Tapered Blending, and the #953S Duet Fiber Foundation.

Skindinavia Makeup Finishing Spray – Original Formula: a cult classic that stops makeup meltdown! This formula holds eye shadow, foundation, blush and concealer perfectly in place all day! Apply after makeup and your need to touchup throughout the day should be cut in half! Good for normal to combination skin.

Embryolisse: this is another staple in our Pro kit that we cannot do without – ever! Formulated in the 1950’s, the Lait-Crème Concentre is like 3 products in one: primer, moisturizer and makeup remover. It also provides a natural barrier to help protect against free radicals and from makeup settling into the pores. We also stocked up on our favorite classic makeup remover Lotion Micellaire. This formulation is non-rinse and will not irritate skin or eyes. We are excited to personally try their new Vitivia topical Pro-Vitamin line, which is pharmaceutical grade, pure concentrate capsules that claim to smooth lines, reduce skin inflammation, reduce hyper pigmentation and scar tissue, as well as help reduce redness and acne.

Viseart: if you are searching for the perfect palette filled with 12 of the most wearable, matte shades ever, then you must purchase this product. These colors are neutral and so versatile that you can wear them as shadows, liner and fill in your brows. Some of the colors are also perfect for contour and highlight on certain skin tones. We love this palette so much that we purchased a brand new one to replace our very used one. Purchase from Alcone; Viseart Eyeshadow Palette #1 – we like to layer these colors over cream eye shadows to create long lasting, layered color that pops the eyes!

Senna Cosmetics Face Sculpting Kit: Eugenia Weston is a goddess to these Pros! We worship the ground she walks on and when we get a chance to speak with her, we bombard her with questions! Eugenia always shares her latest and greatest potions and brews and this year she launched her cream contour and highlight kit. Originally developed for the makeup team on Desperate Housewives, this cream to powder foundation formula is silicone based and blends instantly into the skin and provides a semi matte powder finish. The contour is a very unique shade of gray-brown that can be used to give you fierce cheekbones. Literally change the shape of your face by following the easy to read instructions located on the back of the packaging! Eugenia helped take the guess work out of placement, but always remember to blend using the brush that comes with this compact or grab that Beauty Blender like we do, it is perfect for this product!

Temptu Airpod Foundation System: we fought joining the airbrush band wagon for so long, but when Jori Jeane (Department Head Makeup Artist for Entourage and Harry’s Law) and Darcy Gilmore (Department Head Makeup Artist for The Voice) told these Pros what they thought of this silicone based foundation formula and that they use this line on almost every single actor or talent that sits in their makeup chairs, we had to try it out for ourselves. We fell head over heels immediately and purchased the entire Airpod line. The best part about this system is not only does this foundation last throughout long, vigorous hours of filming, it is easy to apply and there is zero clean up! The Airpod system was originally created for self-application and you can still purchase this system for your own personal use through Temptu’s website. We find that this foundation provides such amazing coverage and sets with a beautiful finish that we don’t need to add concealer on some of our clients. Also, the need for touchup is cut down so much that our actors have actually commented on the fact that we are not in their faces so much on set! Check it out – it is the perfect gift for your holiday or birthday wish list!

That’s just a few of the beauty products we purchased at the show and we visited many other booths to stock up on special effects products too! We hope this post has been useful and please leave us a comment if you happen to try any of the above! 

If you are a beauty professional, The Makeup Show may be coming to a city or town near you, make sure to check their website. Below are a few highlight and press photos from Los Angeles:

And the award goes to...

We are a little bit behind on our posts here at IMPO, but even though Award Season is behind us, we still feel the need to mention our favorite looks and a few products we would use to recreate them.

Let’s begin with the BAFTA’s because we loved Meryl Streep’s look. Who doesn’t love Meryl? She is elegant and always sophisticated. We seriously think she has sold her soul because she seems to totally defy the aging process! Whatever her secret, we are positive that she uses amazing skincare products.

To get Meryl’s flawless skin begin with a wonderful skincare regime. Really pamper yourself like Meryl would before an award show. The Pros recommend the following products from Embryolisse:

Crème Exfoliante (Exfoliating Cream): use to cleanse and exfoliate the skin. This product uses micro-beads to gently resurface, soothe and nourish the skin. Pores will be properly cleansed and bacteria removed. We like to use it with a Clarisonic brush system.

Masque-Crème Hydratant (Hydrating Cream Mask): this product combines the effects of a mask with the effectiveness of a skincare cream to restore hydration levels. This product stimulates and restructures the skin using beeswax, sesame oil, sweet almond oil and vitamins A, E and F.

Serum Anti-Age Redensifiant (Anti-Aging Re-densifying Serum): this product powerfully regenerates the skin with antioxidants for collagen production stimulation. This serum penetrates the skin to firm and plump. Let this product dissolve into the skin for approximately 5 minutes before applying moisturizer.

Redensifiant Contours Yeux-Levres (Re-densifying Eye and Lip Contour Cream): this product contains hyaluronic acid and marine collagen that helps to fade age spots and tone the fragile skin around the eyes. As we age, we sometimes suffer from fine lines around the lips, especially if we are or were a smoker. This product will help fill in and defuse those lines.

Embryolisse’s Crème Anti-Age Raffermissante (Rich Firming Cream): this product is specially formulated with collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin and vitamins A, E and F. These ingredients will help improve elasticity and skin tone. Allow product to sink into the skin approximately 10 minutes before moving on to makeup application.

Rhianna was a knockout at the 2012 Grammy Awards! She is no stranger to experimenting with bold colors, both with her hair and makeup, but this time she wowed us all with her dewy bronzed skin. To get Rhianna’s glow start with a beautiful foundation and we recommend trying Temptu’s Air Pod System.

This is an airbrush machine that has a specially designed gun, which makes it easy to self apply. The pod system allows for no clean up and because the foundation is silicone based, you can rest assure that all your flaws will be covered and that the foundation will stay put with very little touch up needed.

This airbrush system is designed to give a light to medium coverage to the skin when the airbrush gun is held approximately 4 to 6 inches away from the face, but you can move in closer to dispense more product to the areas that need a little more coverage. You can easily hide redness on the cheeks, age spots, sunspots or a breakout. You may find that you do not need to add concealer after using Temptu, but rule of thumb is to apply your concealer first before you airbrush, like under your eyes and make sure to blend well. Also, you may want to use a primer first before application, if you do make certain that the primer is silcone based.

Rhianna’s Grammy dress was low cut and revealing so we are positive that her makeup artist used some type of body makeup. The Pros recommend using RCK Body Glow by celebrity makeup artist Joanna Schlip. This product diminishes and conceals discoloration, scars, stretch marks, spider veins, premature aging and gives the body a healthy, radiant glow. This product will not transfer to clothing and it is easy to apply.

Another look we loved is Zooey Deschanel at the Golden Globes. She is striking all the time in a very retro girl-next door kind of way, but she can bring out the big glam when the occasion calls for it! To recreate Zooey’s piercing eyes we suggest trying colors from Yaby Cosmetics’ Pearl Paint Collection.

Begin with an all over shadow cream base in a neutral color to make certain that the eye shadow stays put all night. Take First Snow and wash the color all over the lid to the crease. Next, take Cappuccino Dream and smudge it into the crease and wing it out. Blend to erase any harsh crease lines. On the outer corner use Antique and blend into Cappuccino Dream in a "V" shape. Use Lemonade in the inner corner near the water line. Line the entire upper and lower lash line with a black liner and smoke it out using Yaby’s Hematite. Lastly, don't forget to line the lower water line with a white or skin tone colored pencil. This will open your eyes and make the whites of your eyes whiter!

Zooey’s artist used false lashes on both the upper and lower lash line. The upper lash line looks so full that we would not be surprised if two pairs of false lashes were used. The lower lash look can be achieved by placing small individual lashes (three to four) along the waterline.

False Lash Tips:

*Always curl your lashes first and use one coat of black mascara prior to applying false lashes.

*Use a false eyelash glue like DUO and wait about 30 seconds before adhering the lashes to insure the glue becomes tacky.

*ALWAYS measure the lash first and clip off excess from the outer corner of the lashes prior so that the length looks more natural and is more comfortable to wear.

*Make sure to apply one more coat of black mascara to bind your natural lashes to the false lashes.

Sofia Vergara was drop dead gorgeous at the SAG (Screen Actor’s Guild) Awards this year and we think her cheekbones were the main attraction (even though some might disagree)! Makeup is all about smoke and mirrors and you can carve out some killer cheekbones simply by using contour and highlight!

To get a Sofia’s chiseled cheeks start with Baja Bronze from Senna Cosmetics and use a fan brush to sculpt in the hollow of your cheek right under the bone from the ear and blend downward. Use sparingly and build the color. If you use too much bronzer then take a clean blending brush and buff the color into the skin or a clean sponge and blend out the edges.

Next take a color that is peachy and pinky like Senna’s Charisma and apply to the apples of the cheeks. This color will tint the cheeks with a sheer, soft glow. Blend into the bronzer. Lastly, use a highlighter in a pinky champagne color like Pure and blend upward from top of cheekbone to brow bone in a "C" shape.

Rooney Mara at this year’s Academy Awards was simply beautiful. Her impeccable red lips should have won a golden statue for their performance on the red carpet! To recreate Rooney’s color we suggest using products from Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics.

First, make sure to prep your lips by gently exfoliating any flaky, dry skin and then buff a lip balm into the lips when applying your skincare. Let the product sink into the lips while you are applying the rest of your makeup. Blot the lips with a tissue to remove excess lip balm before applying lip color.

You can line your lips first using a compatible red lip liner, but OCC Lip Tar not only dispenses serious pigment, it stays put with no bleeding! We love the colors Harlot - a vibrant red/coral, Stalker - a true blue-based red or NSFW - a true red a la Marilyn Monroe! Choose the color that best matches your skin tone and apply a light layer. Remember, a little goes along way and adding too much product can cause feathering.

All OCC products are 100% Vegan and Cruelty-Free and is also free of parabens and other harsh preservatives. This product will also not feel dry because the formula contains Hemp Oil, Peppermint Oil and vitamin E.

We hope that this post has been useful and will help the next time you need to get award show ready!

IMATS 2011 - Los Angeles

Well, it’s that time of year again! The International Makeup Artist Trade Show took place in Pasadena, California and for the first time in IMATS history, the entire weekend sold out! 

The Pros were looking forward to the excellent education, informative workshops and interesting panels featuring some of our favorite movies and TV shows. And, even more so this year, IMATS Los Angeles was the place to catch new product launches, stock up on necessities, and try new cosmetic and special effects lines. Best part, it was all under one roof! 

These Pros are huge fans of the show, Face Off so when we ran into last season’s winner, Connor McCullagh, we were ecstatic to see his newest creation. Head to toe, his character was covered with such intricate detail (and those nails!), even part of her “glands” lit up with multi colors! We also ran into Face Off finalist Gage Hubbard at the Iwata booth. He was in the airbrush phase of this creation and the layers of this creature were amazing!

We got to speak with the man behind the masks, President and Owner of Tech Works FX Studios Inc, Valek Sykes. As well as creating and providing robots and creatures for feature films, he also offers workshops at his school for Animatronics and FX. For more information on taking classes with Valek, visit http://www.animatronicschool.com. 

While walking the floor, we got a few close ups at the student competition makeups:

After visiting our friends at the Alcone booth to stock up on our favorite sponges and mascara wands, we got to speak with the creator of Cozzette Inc., Roque Cozzette, his vegan brushes are making a name for themselves in our industry and he recently launched a new brush cleaner that is packed with essential oils, lavender and lemongrass to give your brushes a cool, refreshing scent while ridding them of makeup and unwanted oil. We were so taken with the scent, we actually thought it was a body spray at first!

We had heard of lip tattoo transfers, and to be honest, we weren’t sold on the idea, so when we saw the Violent Lip booth, the Pros wanted to get the skinny on this new trend. From American Flags to leopard print, they have just about every color and design you could want. With just a quick trim to match your lips, it applies just like a temporary tattoo and lasts for hours. We can definitely see them being used on a music video or for fashion work as they take only minutes to apply and are definitely eye-catching. For more information visit www.violentlips.com.

We made our rounds and the shopping spree continued as we picked up new brushes and tools at Royal Langnickel (they have excellent art and FX brushes), and said hello to our friends at Embryolisse, Eve Pearl, BeautySoClean, Purely Cosmetics and CoverFX. We also saw that Z-Palette released their new “Pro Palette” - the same convenient and space saving palette is now slightly wider and longer to hold even more and to accommodate those products that are extra large or oddly shaped!

The Pros are always beauties on a budget, but we couldn’t resist adding to our Hakuhodo collection. Cathi picked up a tapered powder brush that feels like a massage everytime you use it. Not so sure that one will make it into her kit... 

While the Inglot booth was overrun with anxious makeup artists and credit cards were flying, Cathi found her way to the gel eyeliners. She had been told the pale blue gel eyeliner (#88) was a must for waking up tired eyes and was better than the old white pencil trick. She had to get her hands on it, but she was a bit too late, it was totally sold out! She did find an excellent peach color, #81, that will be a great for Summer and fits in perfectly with the coral trend going strong right now! These gel liners are paraben free, waterproof and can also be used as body paints. This particular peach color would also be useful in an FX kit for certain burn wounds, healing scars, etc.

We are Avid fans of the show, Dancing With the Stars, and department head makeup artist Melanie Mills recently launched her magical Gleam body product that is used to bronze and “glowify” the contestants. We jumped at the chance to get our Gleam on.

Here is Cathi’s before/after arms using the Light Gold color:

 

Gleam comes in four shades: Light Gold, Rose Gold, Bronze Gold, and Deep Gold, and is made with Jojoba Seed Oil which makes it hydrating, yet lightweight. Gleam applies like a mousse and smells like a vacation, now if it could only magically make us dance like they do on the show! The Gleam representative gave us a very useful tip: if your body makeup needs to be waterproof, simply apply the Gleam and then spray over it with an aerosol waterproof sunscreen. 

Workshops and classes at IMATS feature some of our industries top artists demonstrating their trade and sharing tips and tricks with other fellow artists. It breeds creativity and unity among the industry and there is always something new to learn!

The Pros recently purchased the Reel Creations Basic Effects Kit, so when we saw that President of the company, Fred Blau was teaching a basic course using the kit to create quick on set bruises, cuts, and tattoos, we had to attend!

This class was especially helpful for Cathi because while she does do light special effects work, she learned so many quick tricks of the trade from Fred. He literally made a scab, with blood, in a matter of seconds. At the end of each application, he used his Blue Aqua Sealer - what he calls, “The Sealer that Seals Other Sealers.” He demonstrated the product by applying a tattoo and coloring it in, then using the sealer, he sprayed it once, and instantly ran his hand over it. While it should have still been wet and smeared, it didn’t budge! We went straight to his booth and bought two more bottles!

Being that we work in such different environments and sets everyday, we never know what the day will bring - whether it’s skin type, lack of air conditioning, or if the actor is going to be doing strenuous activity and we won’t be able to jump in for touch ups. Needless to say, a great sealer is a must for us. We have since used it on every single beauty makeup since, and have noticed the need for touch ups are few and far between. One small mist is all it takes! It is waterproof and oil resistant. This product would be perfect for brides as well. You can buy products on their site, www.reelcreations.com, and be sure to check out “Fred’s Tips” for helpful hints from the veteran artist.

We were most excited about the True Blood panel. As huge fans of the series, we love the gruesomeness they create. As the seasons progress, so does their creativity, and they always seem to find the most extreme way to use ample amounts of blood and body parts.

The make-up and special effects team consists of Andre Bustanoby, Lana Grossman, Todd Masters, Brigette Myre Ellis, Dan Rebert and Mark Viniello. They have found a balance of making characters like Sookie Stackhouse (Anna Pacquin) look like the flawless Southern Belle of Bon Temps, while at the same time covering her in “gook” from an exploded vampire and still making it look realistic!

The panel was nothing short of entertaining, as the team had come prepared with slideshows, lab test videos and tons of never before seen test and continuity shots. They also gave a sneak preview of what’s to come in Season 4. We don’t want to give anything away, but let’s just say, new creatures will be introduced, and they are much more crass and disgusting than anything you’ve seen thus far.

The panel did reveal some tools used, and some behind the scenes secrets. For instance, when a vampire is exposed to the sun for an extended period of time and starts to burn, they used a combination of tinted colodian, blackened coffee grounds and skin transfers. As far as those vampire tears go, they are at times an actual red tear solution and sometimes a visual effect. Because the tear has to brim in the eye base, it is extremely difficult to make it look seamless. The red also stains the skin, which prolongs the filming process for touch ups, in which case, the visual effects are put in afterward.

Overall, the weekend was a success, and fun was had by all. A huge THANK YOU to Makeup Artist Magazine for all of their hard work planning and coordinating the sold out event! Looking forward to what 2012 will bring!  For more information on upcoming IMATS in or near your area visit www.makeupartistmagazine.com and purchase your tickets today!