Keep it Clean!

As a Pro MUA there is nothing more disgusting than a crusty, old, smelly cosmetic! It churns my stomach and frustrates me when I see people whip out their nasty powder compact, pick up the filthy puff and dust their face with it to reduce shine! Gag me with a spoon people!

I have worked so long in the makeup industry that simply smelling old mascara or lipstick makes me sick! You know what I am talking about: that…odor! How anyone can get a whiff of that mildew stank and still apply that cosmetic onto their face is beyond me!

Have you ever passed your favorite makeup counter and a new blush or lipstick color catches your eye? Before you reach for that tester, you might want to think twice about who used it before you, and more importantly, how they applied it.

Did you know that those unsanitary testers could contain staph bacteria like the kind found on doorknobs, a variety of different germs, E. Coli and fecal bacteria transmitted by unwashed hands?

You can pick up herpes from a tube of lipstick and conjunctivitis (pinkeye) from contaminated eye pencils, eye shadows or mascara! While it is not exactly a pandemic, it is still amazing to see how many people just don’t care!

Our Contributing Writer Pro is also a freelance artist for Smashbox Cosmetics and she occasionally helps out at the department store counters across Southern California.

She is always stunned and (honestly) sometimes grossed out when a customer grabs that lipstick and just slathers it all over their lips without even the slightest hesitation or consideration to use a disposable applicator.

Our Pro is always trying to disinfect testers because she does not want anyone to have an unwarranted breakout or spread bacteria and germs in the name of the new Summer Lip Gloss Collection!

Even if you are cautious and don’t sample colors from a tester directly on your skin think about the products you currently have in your personal makeup bag. How old are they? How often do you clean your makeup applicators or brushes? How often do you read the expiration dates on the cosmetic labels?

If you have sensitive skin or suffer from acne maybe you pay close attention, but if you just have the normal t-zone shine and your skin is pretty even then I bet you don’t really think much about the sterilization of your makeup, especially your powder product.

As a Pro artist one regulation I must adhere to is to make sure that the product I use daily on many clients doesn’t become tainted with germs and cause someone to suffer medically. Not to mention embarrassing, but that incident could put me at risk financially.

So…how do I make sure the product in my kit doesn’t spread infection? Listen up ladies! The solution is available! It’s called BeautySoClean Cosmetic Sanitizer.

This product debuted at the IMATS show in June and we were lucky enough to get our massively sanitized little hands on a sample. Just one spritz and it “effectively cleans, rejuvenates and removes bacteria from all cosmetics without altering your makeup.” It can be used on all products and all brands; lipstick, blushes, eye shadow, foundation, and even mascaras wands!

This makeup Pro went “nuts” over this and immediately purchased massive amounts of the entire line! This product is totally amazing and will safely remove bacteria from the makeup without drying out the product.

Think about how much money you spend on your cosmetics. They are an investment in “you” just like your skincare, hair products and clothing. When your house, car or clothing gets dirty you clean them, right? Well, clean your beauty products too!

Now here is another thought…

BeautySoClean’s Cosmetic Sanitizer Mist comes in a handy purse-sized spritz bottle and also a larger bottle for home use. It dries very quickly and is ideal for the makeup junkie who wants to try before they buy. Because it won’t harm the cosmetics, you can spray the testers at your local counter and apply with confidence!

It is also a great tool to have when getting all dolled up with your girlfriends for that special night out, use before sharing mascaras and lip liners, give them a quick spritz to sanitize instantly. Make sure that your teenage daughters have a few of BeautySoClean Sanitizers in their personal makeup bags and purses when they go to the local mall to check out the latest cosmetic collections!

When this makeup Pro is working on a dozen models at the same time you can imagine how crazy hectic it is to not only have to sanitize brushes between clients, but also cosmetics. I end up carrying several duplicate brushes, eye shadow and blush colors and always winced when another artist would ask if they could “borrow” something from my kit.

Film and TV makeup artists are raving about BeautySoClean because it is now so easy to prevent cross-contamination and keep the products lasting longer. It has “wowed” Oscar award winners Ve Neill (Pirates of the Caribbean) , Greg Cannom (The Curious Case of Benjamin Button) and Michael Westmore (Mask) who use it in their kits. In fact, Mr. Cannom said, “it’s the best sanitizing product (he has) ever used.”

Here is a list of BeautySoClean products:

Cosmetic Sanitizer Mist – is ideal for powder-based products (eye shadows, blushes, pressed powders) and cream-based products (foundation, concealers, lip glosses in pots).

Cosmetic Sanitizer Wipes (48 wipes) – these wipes are ideal for lipsticks, lip glosses, pencils and mascara wands. Packaged individually for travel.

Conditioning Brush Cleaner – formulated with natural ingredients, which quickly dissolve makeup and residue form brushes ensuring a longer “life” to your brush investment. Can be used on both natural and synthetic makeup brushes.

Cosmetic Sanitizer Wipes jar (60 pads) – these disposable wipes are easy and convenient to use. Good for your bathroom or makeup application area.

The entire BeautySoClean product line cleans, refreshes and removes bacteria from makeup 100% effectively in 10 seconds. This is a smart and easy way to insure that your products are sanitary and that bacteria won’t breed on your makeup!

To order BeautySoClean online go to www.beautysoclean.com

PRO TIPS AND TRICKS:

Spraying 70% isopropyl alcohol directly onto powdered cosmetic will eventually cause the product to dry out and need to be replaced with a fresh product. Using the BeautySoClean Sanitizer will cure those makeup pains and relieves from the stresses of “de-funking” cosmetic products after use!

STAY TUNED:

Up next on IMPO: Body Electric! IMPO brings you the latest and greatest info on cosmetics to use from the neck up, but how about beauty products for the neck down? Okay! Our next post will contain some amazing products that will have your skin and body looking hot!

Close Encounters!

High Definition, High Def, HD, what ever you call it, the denotation of these words or initials means only one thing: close encounters!  In the professional makeup industry, shooting in HD has become standard.  Every production company, television and photography studio or film sound stage is able to shoot in high definition and makeup artists have spent many hours perfecting their craft in order to answer this call.

What does High Definition really mean?  In television terms, high definition means that a television sees more lines per picture than standard.  525 lines per image was the average for American television until recently when high definition became the norm, bumping the number of lines up to 1000 per image.  Talk about a moment of clarity!  Literally!

Initially, professional MUAs panicked when forced to work on high definition and celebrities reacted in the same manner.  Airbrushing, which was originally used for body painting, tanning, special effects or tattoo cover, started to become a popular tool for face application when working in this medium.  However, our industry has learned that it is truly the artist’s technique whether utilizing an airbrush or traditional applicators and the use of exceptional skin prepping products that enhance the look of an actor, actress or model and not necessarily if the makeup brand is made for HD use.

It is also important to understand that a makeup artist works closely with the DP (lighting director), as well as with other key crewmembers and conducts several camera tests prior to shooting, which makes for a successful high definition production. 

We have also learned that because high def is really an intense sharpness of an image, a makeup artist’s traditional bag of tricks needs to be “tweaked” slightly.  Cosmetics need to be more translucent and have a modest reflective quality.  An extremely heavy product will show on the surface of the skin in HD unless blended properly or made more opaque and “built” onto the skin with a light hand in order to cover discoloration.

So, how does wearing high definition makeup benefit the consumer?  First, I think it is important to remind the shopper that the majority of cosmetic companies are under pressure when it comes to innovation.  The beauty industry is saturated with products and a cosmetic line must find a niche that can be filled and set them apart from the others.

Naturally, with all the hoopla about HD, major cosmetic brands jumped on the bandwagon and now offer an alternative to standard cream, liquid or powder foundations, concealers and face powders, which they claim will mimic the effect of a professional makeup artist’s technique.

When you hear the term HD what do you think?  This Pro thinks “perfect skin!”   But, because I am a Pro, I know that no one has perfect skin!  My job is to create that illusion and I have several tricks up my sleeve that I use in order to achieve this goal.  

Several cosmetic brands on the current market offer their version of HD products and here is a list of this Pro’s favorites:

Make Up Forever: Danny Sanz is the brain behind this brand and it’s HD product line.  She is a professional makeup artist with a resume and portfolio that screams “A-Lister!”  This line was originally created for actors and actresses to keep their complexion flawless in 6X magnification and it comes in a three-part series: Primer (which are colored for correction purposes), Foundation (for improving the skin texture) and Powder (with Silica which is more translucent than talc).  This product is also packed with nourishing ingredients that help to minimize pores, which improves the overall appearance of the skin and will correct issues effectively.

Dior: Capture Totale is a foundation that is manufactured differently than standard liquid foundation and the pigments used in creating the color of this product are unique, in that they are more genuine to natural skin tone.  Have you ever noticed that certain foundations seem to have a “grey” hue to them?  That is because of a mixture of pigment and the manufacture’s formulation called for “black” – too much black pigment = a grey undertone.  Do you know anyone who is of good health that walks around on this earth with a grey undertone?  Neither do I.   Dior’s Capture Totale Foundation while expensive is worth the money.  It is also a treatment (hence the price tag) and helps reverse the signs of aging skin.

Smashbox: High Definition Healthy FX Foundation is a product that this Pro has found to be great alternative to the higher priced cosmetic lines.  It offers wonderful antiaging ingredients, is oil-free and feels weightless on the skin, plus it contains a built in SPF 15, which provides extra sun protection.  This product is offered in a variety of skin tones so finding your perfect match should be easy.

The benefits to using one of the above lines is that you are ensuring that your skin is receiving proper nutrients and protectants while your imperfections are being covered.  Thus, giving you the vehicle to produce perfect skin like a Pro MUA, but you must make sure you apply the product correctly.  Bad application of a good product will make you look horrible and feel as if you have wasted your money.

Here is the how-to for HD makeup application:

1.              Prep with skin care accoutrement (serum, moisturizer, eye cream, primer, sunscreen, etc.) and let absorb into the skin.  Remember: primer is what erases lines and pores on the skin so apply last and prior to makeup.

2.              Apply foundation and blend into the skin (make sure that your foundation is an exact match to your neck color).

3.              Apply concealer if needed and blend.  Remember: concealer is used on extreme discolored areas of the face and only if the foundation did not cover up the imperfection.  You don’t always need it!

4.              Apply setting powder with a light hand to absorb excess oil by buffing the product gently into the skin using a circular motion and powder brush.

5.              Blend, blend, blend – everything!! All makeup must be blended so as to create the illusion of perfect skin and to erase any heavy lines of demarcation!  This applies to foundation, concealer and all powder products (eye shadow, blush, etc.).

You will want to invest in a great brush line.  It will benefit your application technique and cut blending time in half.  Please see archive post entitled Brush Off for this Pro’s recommendations.

If you are attempting the use of a Make Up Forever color primer/corrector here are the rules:

Neutral – adds luminosity to the complexion

Green – minimizes redness (rosacea)

Mauve – cuts sallow undertones

Caramel – combats ashiness in dark skin tones with golden undertones

Blue – adds radiance to fair skin

Yellow – lightens dark complexions

Pink – brightens complexion and counteracts sallow undertones

It is strongly suggested by this Pro that you seek the advice of a trained Make Up Forever sales professional prior to purchasing this product for proper matching and application technique.

Good High Definition Cosmetic products offer amazing skin care, coverage, luminosity and protection from the elements in one bottle!

So…I guess the real question is, “do you need HD makeup?”  I don’t know…do you?  Do you feel that you are living your life in HD?  Obviously!  We all are…everyday! Our eyes see the world in HD!  Every wrinkle, line and imperfection!  Is that such a bad thing?  The answer lies within you!

PRO TIPS AND TRICKS:

When working in high definition there is one more rule that a skilled MUA will never forget - NO GLITTER!  HD picks up every sparkle, twinkle and dazzle so we leave the glitter for more special-effect type of photo shoots.  Instead, this Pro will opt for a slight shimmer in a product and will place that shimmer in areas of the face that light would naturally "bounce" off of, such as the highlight of the cheek or brow bone.

STAY TUNED:

Up next on IMPO:  Baby it's hot ouside!  With summer closing in learn how make your cosmetics last all day!  It's no sweat!

Flaunt Your Face!

What do Sharon Stone, Lindsay Lohan, Kate Beckinsale, Brittany Murphy, Jessica Alba and Scarlett Johansson have in common? They all share the same makeup artist!

Tricia Sawyer began her career at The Joe Blasco Makeup School in Los Angeles at the tender age of 18! After graduating, she honed her skills working as an artist with Roger Corman’s Concorde/New Horizons and on several music videos for Alice Cooper, Ozzy Osborne and Janet Jackson.

In 1992, Tricia was asked to work with Sharon Stone on the movie “Where Sleeping Dogs Lie,” which turned out to be the first of twenty feature films they would collaborate on together. She is a sought after makeup artist by some of Hollywood’s A-List celebrities and in 1995 Tricia became the spokesperson for Prescriptives Cosmetics where she was responsible for the re-design of the existing color line up, along with the design of new collections; most notably the “Magic” line. She would work as a spokesperson for four-years and stayed on with Estee Lauder Companies as an independent development consultant.

The obvious next step for this Pro MUA was to develop her own cosmetic line and that naturally came to fruition with the birth of Tricia Sawyer Beauty. Tricia used her knowledge of the film and television industry along with her expertise in product development and came up with a cosmetic brand that is highly pigmented, versatile and easy to use. Having her finger on the “pulse” of the needs of the everyday woman, Tricia brings a unique and exciting line of beauty and lifestyle products to the consumer.

I first discovered the TSB line when searching for quality product to stock in my professional makeup kit. You can imagine how intense it is to research forty different cosmetics brands, only to discover that on a film set, television show or photo shoot, only a few products from the line really “work!” It is a frustrating and expensive experience. I was determined to find one makeup line that “had it all!”

This Pro is a palette girl and can’t have hundreds of individual eye shadow and blush colors floating around in my kit, so when I found TSB the very first products I purchased was the entire palette line. Tricia cleverly designs her palettes during her post-production phase when she is hired on as an actress’ personal makeup artist. They collaborate together on a certain “look” for the character that the actress will be portraying in the film and Tricia takes those colors and develops the palette. She decided to bring that idea to the mainstream and now the consumer can benefit.

Currently, each TSB Icon Palette consists of 6 eye shadow colors and 2 full-size blush colors. Named after iconic beauties that have had the pleasure of working directly with Tricia, here is a list of this Pro’s favorites:

Sharon – based on a movie shot in Las Vegas during the time period of the 1960’s, these colors translate into modern life. This palette is incredible for a smoky eye look full of drama!

Lindsay – based on a movie where Ms. Lohan portrayed twin sisters, these colors are fresh, but bring definition to the eyes and cheeks. Incredible natural blush colors bring a warm flush to the skin. Great starter palette for teens!

Regina – combining soft and dramatic colors together reflective of Ms. King’s Oscar-winning performance in “Ray,” this palette will take you from day to night. This Pro’s all-time favorite highlight color called Voluptuous is housed in this palette.

Scarlett – based on a movie where Ms. Johansson portrayed a college student at NYU, this palette captures youth and beauty. If you have similar coloring then this palette will make your eyes “pop!”

Brittany – based on a “little” movie in which Ms. Murphy’s character was a young career minded girl looking for love, these colors are polished and professional, yet more natural in tone. Great palette for the busy executive!

Kate – based on a movie character that was an artist, these colors are fun and extremely pigmented. Packed with a gorgeous range of purple hues, you can create a beautiful look for day and a glamorous look for evening.

Essential and Essential Pretty – containing the 4 most “essential” colors a Pro MUA carries in their kit, these universal shades can be used for eye shadow, blush, contour, highlight, eye brows and liner. I use the Essential palette daily both personally and professionally.

Another plus to these palettes is that Tricia understood that some colors will be “loved” more than others, so she made it convenient to refill these components. Incredible for travel or on-the-go, you can slip them into your cosmetic bag for easy touch-up or to take a look from daytime to nighttime!

When a Pro MUA sets out to manufacturer his or her own product line, the concept usually started because of a “lack” in the industry. A “need” the makeup artist can’t fulfill by purchasing a product from a mass-marketed beauty line, the artist will usually mix up their own brand of foundation, primer, eye shadow color, lip color, etc.

The next step is the artist will “stumble” upon a great concept never before seen in the cosmetic industry. Those Pro tips and tricks turned “specialty” products are my favorite! The TSB line has two such creations in the collection that stand out from the crowd; Eye Slept and Smoke and Mirrors.

Eye Slept – hailed as the “instant good night sleep in a jar,” this product can be used over or under makeup, but it is NOT a concealer! It is a skin “brightener” with a creamy marshmallow consistency. Used to bring lightness to the dark areas of the under eye, nasal labial folds, chin or cupid’s bow, you need very, very little to give your skin an instant pick me up. Applied with your fingertip, this product will absorb quickly and blend easily.

Smoke and Mirrors – the smoky eye look is the most popular eye look of all time! A Pro MUA uses approximately 6 different shades to create a “traditional” smoky concept, consisting of black, charcoal, grey, silver, purple and sometimes, blue hues. Smoke and Mirrors is a smoky eye in a bottle making it easy to achieve the look with one product and one step. All 6 hues are combined into this product and you apply with the wand tip applicator. Use alone or layer it over your existing daytime shadow to transform your look for night.  Pro tip: tap off excess before applying to eye lid.

Giving “good face” is most important to the Pro Makeup Artist so making sure that an actor, actress or model has perfect skin is first on the list. Much like a painter preps a canvas, the MUA must prep skin before working their magic. The TSB Skin Balancing Water Primer is an incredible oil-free product infused with aloe leaf, to soothe and cool and sodium hyaluronate to help reduce the appearance of fine lines. Silicone is added to maintain your natural moisture levels by trapping water next to the skin’s surface. It is also perfect for men after shaving to provide extra moisturization and to calm the skin.

Full Potential Foundation is what Tricia uses to cover discolorations and imperfections on her client’s skin. Highly pigmented, cream foundation that offers the best of both worlds: coverage with minimal amount of product used to allow for correction of issues with a soft, transparent appearance. You don’t have to live your life on the “big screen” to have a perfect complexion.

In order to apply this foundation like a Pro, use what the Pro’s use; the Tricia Sawyer Beauty Foundation Brush. Unlike flat brushes that can leave “streak” marks, Tricia’s foundation brush has a unique rounded shape, which allows you to “buff” foundation into the natural curves of your face, creating a flawless finish.

You must “set” any cream or liquid product applied to the face prior to applying powder blush or eye shadow (if you don’t, then you will look worse than a “hot” mess!). Tricia Sawyer Beauty’s The Powder is a loose, translucent, setting powder made of finely milled cotton, which soaks up oil and will control shine during the day reducing the need for touch ups. This product won’t settle into the fine lines or wrinkles around the eyes and forehead and it won’t clog pores!

Tricia Sawyer Beauty products are sold online at www.triciasawyer.com, www.qvc.com, www.sephora.com and they are sold at selected Sephora store locations.  

INSIDER INFO:  Tricia is constantly adding to her extensive cosmetic line and on Saturday, May 30th, watch Tricia live on QVC's Saturday Night Beauty!  She will be debuting her new Brow Define Pencils and believe me, you will want to get your hands on this amazing product!  Check the QVC Program Guide for show times in your area and don't forget to set the DVR or Tivo!

PRO TIPS & TRICKS:

Tricia has several how-to videos on YouTube, iTunes or on her website.  The video below highlights tips and tricks for using the Eye Slept product.  Check out her tutorial collection featuring her Foundation, Icon Palettes, Essential Palettes, Smoke and Mirrors, plus tips on how to clean and preserve your brushes and much more!

STAY TUNED:

Up next on IMPO - High Definition, what's the big deal? Confused by all the new High Definition cosmetic products? Don't miss the next post from IMPO as we go undercover and investigate the world of HD!

* All photos courtesy of Tricia Sawyer Beauty & IMDB except Regina King promo photo.