Valentine's Day How-To by Heather Wilson

A very special and romantic holiday is almost upon us! A day where it is tradition that lovers express their fondness by presenting each other with tokens of endearment!

To celebrate Valentine’s Day, you are probably thinking about purchasing a new outfit and shoes, how you will wear your hair and we hope that you are considering trying something new with your makeup.

No matter who you are spending this day with, be it a special partner or a single ladies night out, the Pros at IMPO want to suggest two makeup looks that are actually easy to achieve despite their intimidation!

Now, we all have our comfort level for an evening or special event makeup look, but this is the day to try something a little extra! So, the Pro’s want you to ask yourself…”are you more comfortable with a brighter lip, or a smokey eye?”

  

In this post, Pro makeup artist and IMPO writer, Heather Wilson will guide you through six easy steps on how to wear a red lip or a smokey eye and she will show you the products she uses to attain both of these looks.

Here is how she does it:

For most of us, we don’t feel comfortable in a bolder lip, but if you have found that perfect red and you are willing to try something new, then Valentine's Day is definitely the day to rock it! 

Let's begin...

First: start with super moisturized and exfoliated skin.

Second: mix 1/2 a pump of Make Up For Ever Uplight with your foundation to get that soft glow (if you tend to be more oily in your T-zone, you will not want to put this product on your forehead, nose or chin). This is also the time to conceal any skin flaws, irritations or dark circles with your favorite concealer product and then set the entire face with a neutral powder.

Third: use Laura Mercier Eye Shadow Base in Wheat to get a nice nude eyelid, but any “bone” colored shadow will do. Then take a color like MAC’s Soft Brown and smudge into top and bottom lashes. You can also add a very thin line of black, liquid eyeliner to define the upper lash line, but feel free to skip this step because if you do not feel confident in using this product the look can turn “vintage” quickly. This would also be the time to fill in your eyebrows with a matching color if needed.

Fourth: apply plenty of black mascara in your favorite brand and you can try a full or half set of false lashes. We love Ardell’s #105 or #301 for accent.

Fifth: a light application of bronzer like Bobbi Brown’s Maui Illuminating Bronzing Powder will sculpt cheekbones and add a slight bit of shimmer.

Sixth: to get a flawless red lip that will last through out the night make sure your lips are not chapped or flaky. Apply a matching red lip liner and use Yaby Cosmetics Lipstick in LC184. Finish the look with a little gloss just in the center of the lip. Alternative red lips that I love are: NARS 413 BLKR Larger Than Life Lip Gloss or Pure Matte Lipstick and Lipstick Queen’s Sinner or Saint.

4 more red lippies that are Pro favorites worth mentioning are all from NYX Cosmetics; Mega Shine Lip Gloss in Perfect Red, Xtreme Lip Cream in Spicy and Absolute Red and Soft Matte Lip Cream in Amsterdam.

Maybe you are more of the smokey eye type! If so, I am going to suggest mainly using soft plums for a more romantic flare than the traditional concrete tones popular with rock stars!

Let's begin...

First, follow the same steps for your skin prep, foundation, concealer and powder listed above. Then continue on with...

Eyes: Again, using Laura Mercier Eye Shadow Base not so much as an overall color this time, but instead to hold the shadows in place. Then use three of Yaby Cosmetics Pearl Shadows on the lid: PP017, PP038, PP047 and under the lower lash line. Take a black eyeshadow, such as NARS Night Breed and smudge it into the outer corner and elongate. I love to use Smashbox Gel Liner in Midnight Black softly smudged into the upper lash line because it will stay put all night.

Again as listed above, use a soft bronzer to sculpt your cheeks, fill in your brows if necessary, apply plenty of black mascara and false lashes then...

Lips: Use Make Up For Ever’s Rouge Artist Intense in Satin Blackcurrant for an intense pigment that will match the plum colored eyes. Alternatives are; YSL Rouge Pur Couture Gloss in Violet Edition, Sephora Collection Rogue Cream Lipstick in Crush 23 or a little lighter tone with a hint of brown is Bobbi Brown's Lipstick in Raisin.

If you just can't handle the combo of a smokey eye and a matching dark lip then swap for a soft nude with a hint of pink, but that is playing it safe and on Valentine's Day I say step out of your comfort zone and have a little fun!

Remember to take your time, apply your makeup well and don’t rush! It is important to blend…blend…blend and blend some more for a flawless finish!

Wishing everyone a very Happy Valentine's Day!

*all cosmetics listed above can be purchased online or at your nearest Sephora retailer. Yaby Cosmetics can be purchased from their online site or from Camera Ready Cosmetics.

*photos courtesy of Makeup by Heather Wilson.

Back to School - Teen Queen II

This Pro is not only a makeup artist, but I am a mom too and more importantly, I have teenagers! In a past IMPO post titled Teen Queen, I mentioned a few of my “pet peeves” when it comes to teen girls who must put loads of makeup on their pretty faces in order to feel confident or to “fit in!” This post will be a little different, it is time to go back to school and that means it is time to help your teen get prepped for the upcoming year.

As parents we shop for new clothes, school supplies and other back to school “must haves,” but have you ever stopped to consider that now is the perfect time to replenish your teen’s supply of skincare and makeup?

Go through your teen’s accoutrement of facial wash, moisturizer, sunscreen and all cosmetics. Throw out the gross, expired, crusted, stinky product and shop for some new items. And, it is o.k. for your teen to express herself when it comes to her individual look. Embrace her differences, encourage her to play up her most outstanding features (eyes, lips, skin) and help her cover those areas that she feels are embarrassing, like acne or other skin issues.

When I was a teenager I wanted to change my looks so badly! I didn’t like my face, my hair or the fact that I was 5 feet taller than everyone else! Instead of being guided to appreciate my gorgeous green eyes, high cheekbones or the fact that I had perfect skin at the age of 14, all I wanted was to look like someone else! I hated my nose, my hair was not blonde enough, I was too tall and it took several agonizing years before I was able to be thankful for what I was born with!

Junior High is the worst time for teens! High school is a little easier, but not much. Your teen is in desperate need for a parent’s approval and attention, but at the same time, she or he wants their independence and privacy! Others who are huge influences surround them and if you are not careful, your teen will latch on to someone they think is the ultimate and that can spell disaster.

I try hard to be the “cool” mom by listening to my teenager’s needs; feelings, anxieties and I try to help however I can. Sometimes all I can do is listen and offer good old mom advice like, “tomorrow will be a better day!” And one of the most important things I do is to accept and inspire my teen’s individuality.

Now, I am not an expert and I am not here to lecture anyone who is reading this blog post, but I am going to advise other parents in my position to set aside a few dollars and go shopping for products that will boost your teen’s confidence and help them brave a new school year.

It is worth every penny and it is an investment in the one person who will not appreciate your effort on the outside, but on the inside loves you more than you know! That is tough love, but I’ll take it!

This Pro has tested more beauty products for teens than I ever care to admit and I will tell you that most have gone straight into the garbage because they either clog the pores of the skin or they damage the hair or they make beautiful, young ladies look like tramps.

But, there are many products that I do love and have given to my own teens to wear and use with much success. Here is a list of the “goods” that have this Pro’s seal of approval:

Jan Marini Teen Clean – this skincare line is top notch and helps to fight all adolescent skin concerns. This is a 3-step program that includes a wash, lotion and daily face protectant. It is amazing on skin that is changing and developing and that may be suffering from more major acne issues. Jan Marini says, “most sun damage occurs before the age of 10 and at least 80% of sun damage happens before the age of 18!” I cannot stress enough the importance of giving your daughter or son a good skincare regime that includes proper sunscreen. Think about it – did your mom make you wash your face every morning and night and apply sunscreen before you left for school? How do you feel about your own skin right now? Enough said!

Dermalogica Clean Start – this product line does not have a bejeweled jar or glittered packaging like most teens love however, what it does have is a star-studded following and user base like the cast from The Suite Life of Zack and Cody and Wizards of Waverly Place. The kit contains a foaming cleanser, toner, scrub, two daytime moisturizers, a nighttime moisturizer, spot treatment for blemishes and a lip moisturizer. It does not have a sunscreen so you will want to purchase a facial protectant to accommodate this regime. I like this line for more dry to normal skin with few acne issues.

It is important to instill in your teen the effectiveness of cleansing and you must show them how to maintain, prevent breakouts and protect their skin everyday. Starting them off with good skin habits will last a lifetime and when they are in there 30’s they will thank you for nagging them!

Foundation, concealer and powder are part of the skincare team and it is mandatory to purchase good cosmetic formulas that are made to work along side your skincare and not against it! Mineral lines are great for teens and the only line that I approve of is Purely Cosmetics.

Purely Cosmetics is great for teen skin because it contains 100% natural ingredients that have no bismuth, talc, micronized minerals or other skin irritants. This product line is formulated by hand to match the exact skin tone and it will effectively cover minor to major skin blemishes without clogging the pores. Purely’s color line is not full of sparkles or glitter so allowing your teen to wear the latest colors from the runway won’t be as intense (even though that is what she wants)!

One of the tricks that I have taught my teens is to use an all over neutral wash of color on the eyes from the lid to the brow bone – like a warm vanilla shade. Then use a more vibrant and fun color to line the top lash line – like a sapphire blue, amethyst, emerald or gray. Black liner will always be a parent’s nemesis, but it is time to make peace with that enemy and either encourage your daughter (and now your son with guy liner) to only line the top lash line or inside, bottom water line and use more neutral colors as eye shadow.

Mascara can be any drug store brand that is easy to remove with soap and water or eye makeup remover. It is up to you which formula you allow your teen to wear and with many mascaras debuting colors for the fall season, you may find that using a pretty blue, green, purple or gray product really makes your teen’s eyes pop instead of the traditional black or brown.

Neutral blush is very important and it is crucial that you encourage your teen to choose a light color in a peach or pink tone or wear no blush color at all opting for the natural flush of their skin tone to show through.

A highlight is not recommended for teens because they tend to go overboard when they apply something with more sparkle and that can be an overwhelming look on any young person (like they were playing in their mother’s makeup)! I don’t want my girls looking like Brooke Shields a la Pretty Baby!

This Pro makeup mom loves the Sephora brand of cosmetics because they have a wide range of color in all textures with great prices! My teens feel as if they are shopping like grown ups instead of being treated like little girls! However, the testers at some of the Sephora stores do not meet with my approval and so I have forbidden my girls to place a “tester” product directly onto their face and insist they use the backs of their hands in order to test product prior to purchasing.

Lipgloss is the only approved product for teens. I do not like the look of a heavy lipstick and lip liner on any young lady. I allow my teens to use pretty colors from M.A.C. or Lancôme Juicy Tubes also score big points from my girls. Even though your teen will constantly be applying and reapplying lipgloss (especially if it smells and tastes like chocolate, strawberry or watermelon), we parents have to pick and choose our battles and as long as the gloss color is not neon yellow, orange, green, blue or red than I say, let this one go!

Now get out there and bond with your teen over a trip to the mall and enjoy the one-on-one time you will have with your offspring! They are growing up fast and you never know, they may end up teaching you a thing or two about beauty products!

PRO TIPS AND TRICKS:

If your teen suffers from very oily skin after they have washed their face properly, have them apply at mattifying product. This Pro loves Eve Pearl’s Anti-Shine product, which goes on after skincare, but before cosmetic. Also, have them use blotting papers during the day to control the shine instead of constantly powdering their face. I love Rodan + Fields UnBlemish blot papers with Zincidone, they will absorb oil without adding product to the face!

STAY TUNED:

Up next on IMPO: Spotlight on Julie Hewett! Ever wonder what Annette Bening, Jodie Foster, Nicole Kidman or Mandy Moore wears on their face? Step into the world of Julie Hewett and discover exquisite beauty!

Last Looks!

There is a term used in the television and film industry called “Last Looks!” Let’s pretend we are on set and you hear the AD shout that phrase, what you would see next are crew members from the makeup, hair and wardrobe departments jump to attention and rush to spritz, tug and primp the actor/actress before the camera begins to roll.



This Pro likes to apply face powder at the time that “Last Looks” are called because that is when the star of the show or movie must look perfect. Face Powders, whether loose or pressed, set foundation and concealer after application and prepare the face for “powder” cheek and eye color. However, the most important job of a face powder is to minimize shine by soaking up oil or sweat produced by the skin. When working under the hot lights of a movie set trying to keep the skin matte can sometimes be very challenging.



The good news is that there are many “industry” face powders that cross over into the consumer-friendly world of beauty and they are available to you for everyday use (you just need to know where to get them). Also, several mass-marketed cosmetic lines manufacture face powders that work miracles and require little touch-up during the day (you just need to know what they are)!

But first, here are the basics…

Loose Powder: dense texture and provides more coverage. Applied with brush, sponge or powder puff. Matte or sheer finish.

Pressed Powder: same properties as a loose powder “pressed” into a compact. Applied with brush, sponge or powder puff. Less coverage because it dispenses small amounts of product on face. Matte or sheer finish. Best for touch-ups.

Color: like foundation and concealer, face powders are sold in a range of colors to match the skin tone. Translucent powder is invisible and is preferred by this Pro.

Ingredients: the most common ingredients in face powders are talc, cornstarch mica and zinc. If you are allergic to any of those elements, we recommend switching to mineralized powder products, which may be better for you.

Tools: a powder brush is large and dome shaped picking up less product and allowing for a sheer application. Use a powder puff to apply a heavier amount to face and gently blot or press into the skin; sweeping the puff will cause a “streaking” effect on the face. The sponge is used in the same manner as puff and applies a sheer amount.

Other: very oily skin can change the color of powder. If you use a colored face powder, choose a color that is 1 or 2 shades lighter than your foundation to allow for oxidation.

Issues: most women suffer from cakey powder application and one of the most common misconceptions is that too much powder was applied. While that could be true, it is more likely that the skin was not prepped properly: either not enough or too much moisturizer was applied to the skin. That situation can cause the face powder to have too much “grab” and where the build up of product occurs is most likely where the moisturizer application was uneven or not absorbed properly prior to makeup application.

Here is a valuable tip: prep skin with all accoutrement (serum, moisturizer, eye cream, primer, etc.) and allow 10 minutes to absorb. Fold up facial tissue into a square and “blot” excess product and oil off skin. Now begin application of cosmetics.

Another common problem is flakiness after powder application, which is caused by the skin being too dry and solved by simply bumping up the amount of moisturizer used in skin prep (but not too much because you will have the Cakey problem above). Tricky huh? But, with practice and over time, you will discover your inner makeup artist and kiss those issues good-bye!

Here is a list of products that this Pro recommends:

Cinema Secrets Translucent Powder - typically an “industry” product perfect for setting foundation. Finely milled, clump-free, antiperspirant powder. Translucent formula or available in several warm shades. Purchase on line at www.professionalsecrets.stores.yahoo.net.



Tricia Sawyer Beauty’s The Powder– loose, colorless setting powder made of finely milled cotton for maximum absorbency and controls shine throughout the day. Sheer coverage and works on all skin tones. Available online at www.sephora.com or www.triciasawyer.com.



Visiora PC Powder Compact - this is Dior's "industry" line and is incredible to set foundation or used on bare skin. Heavier coverage with a matte, satin finish. Good for all skin tones and types. This is the choice of many Pro MUAs. Available online at www.camerareadycosmetics.com.



Graftobian Face Powder – works with all skin tones and types and provides a soft, matte finish. Minimizes shine. Available online at www.paintandpowderstore.com.



Make Up Forever HD Microfinish Powder -
a universal translucent finishing powder can be worn alone to reduce shine or applied to set foundation. Completely evens out the complexion and is made of 100% mineral silica powder. Available online at www.sephora.com.



Smashbox Halo Hydrating Perfecting Powder – this powder reduces fine lines and wrinkles in 10 minutes! It is the first anti-aging powder with skincare built in. Available online at www.smashbox.com or www.sephora.com.



Eve Pearl Photo Finish Pressed Powder Neutral – apply with powder puff in rolling motion across the face to set foundation. This is a light-diffusing, sheer pressed powder that eliminates shine and to defuse skin discolorations. Perfect for travel. Available online at www.evepearl.com.



MAC Blot Powder – this is an industry standard with many color ranges to perfectly match your skin tone. Provides shine control without adding noticeable color or texture. Absorbs excess oil and reduces shine. Available at www.maccosmetics.com or at fine retailers.



Purely Cosmetics’ Finishing Powder – this mineral makeup line does not use fillers, preservatives or irritating ingredients that can cause breakouts on the skin. This product line is quickly becoming the preferred mineral line for all age groups and works especially well for women with more mature skin. It aids in oil absorption and adds a smooth, matte finish to skin. This powder is colorless and is made of 100% pure silk. Perfect for those seeking a natural mineral cosmetic line. This Pro also recommends this product for young adults and teens. Purchase online at www.purelycosmetics.com.



“All right Mr. De Mille, I’m ready for my close-up.” And so will you! Before you step out of the house, or into the office for the big interview, or answer the door for that hot date, don’t forget to take a “Last Look!” A final set of powder will help your makeup stay put through life’s big moments!



PRO TIPS AND TRICKS:
If you suffer from extremely oil skin try using blotting papers before or in between face powder touch ups. This will help to avoid powder buildup in areas around the nose and mouth. Also, if powder tends to cake in the fine lines and wrinkles around the eye area, then avoid excess powdering in that area. Set foundation and concealer placed under eye and do not touch-up frequently during the day. If you feel you have excess eye oil and find that your eye shadow and liner fade during the day, try using a eyelid primer such as Urban Decay’s Eye Shadow Primer Potion available at Sephora.



STAY TUNED:
Up next on IMPO– guest blogger Carissa from Hooked on Beauty! She is a Pro MUA and has a great product review blog. Find out what cosmetic and beauty products she can’t live without personally and professionally!



*above photo credit: Flicker.com